Thousands of people dressed in Civil War era garb, marching on the blazed orange hiking trail through Olustee battlefield, shooting off cannons, lining up to be shot at in outdated battle formations, and sleeping in canvas tents in the freezing cold.
It was great weekend. Mike had timed his FL Trail hike to arrive at Olustee in time for the annual battle reenactment. He was invited to participate in the battle, and can't very well wander round in "authentic" gear and a camera round his neck, so he asked me to go along to get photos. The battle was fun, the people involved very courteous to me, and even let me go behind the battle lines to get some good shots, but it was very loud so close to the cannons, and also quite cold hiding out in the shade of the bushes. I did manage to not get shot though!
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Sunday, February 11, 2007
Potts Preserve Backpack
It was Ian's birthday for this trip.
In the spirit of "the things you do for friends", I carried a custard pie (Ian's favorite) in my backpack, and it arrived intact. I dressed up in the skimpiest, brightest dress I could find, and presented it to him while the group sang Happy Birthday. It was all in good fun, but rather too cold to stay only in the dress for too long.
Looks good with Crocs though, huh?
View more photos in my Picasa album
In the spirit of "the things you do for friends", I carried a custard pie (Ian's favorite) in my backpack, and it arrived intact. I dressed up in the skimpiest, brightest dress I could find, and presented it to him while the group sang Happy Birthday. It was all in good fun, but rather too cold to stay only in the dress for too long.Looks good with Crocs though, huh?
View more photos in my Picasa album
Sunday, February 4, 2007
Shortest Hike Ever!
This past weekend, I finally had the opportunity to hike with friend Mike as he exits the Panhandle and entered my weekend territory. The plan initially was to hike around 20 + miles over the weekend. By the time we eventually set off on a rather late morning start on Saturday, the mileage goal had changed to “let’s just see where we get to.” It turned out to not be very far, but an incredibly enjoyable hike. Mike is 3 months into his thru-hike of the Florida Trail. It's a thru hike that dreams are made of. No daily mileage goals, just comprehensive exploration of all things in, on, around and near the Florida Trail. He is full of stories and experiences, both of the trail itself, and other hiking, outdoors, people and places.
As we set off hiking through the forest along the Suwannee River we spent as much time talking and laughing as we did hiking. We would stop mid-stride just to make a point in conversation, and these frequent breaks seemed to get longer each time. I was quickly and easily converted to his hiking philosophy.
Our final weekend mileage tally was only 9.5 miles over two days. Admittedly, that’s less than I’d usually hike in a single day, but I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of every mile (and there were a lot of minutes per mile!) About 6 1/2 miles into the hike we stopped for lunch at a picnic table on the bluffs overlooking the river. It was a cool day, and stopping for more than a few minutes to talk prompted the desire for a hot drink. We boiled up water for coffee, and another, and another. During which, it got colder. Eventually, I ended up putting on my warm long johns and sweater over my hiking gear. I was pretty obvious we weren't hiking on this afternoon. After scouting around for a decent place to camp, we decided the best spot was right there where we were at the picnic table, so we camped.
Day turned to dark, and lunch and coffee became dinner and hot chocolate. It was a cold night, but the hot sustenance, the dropping of the breeze, and all the warm layers (including a fleece blanket wrapped around me under my raincoat) helped make it pleasant for sitting at the table enjoying the evening. We had a few light frozen rain and snow dustings, but not enough to worry about or get anything wet.
Overnight was cold, but not unbearable. Next morning, our necessary hot breakfast turned into a VERY LONG breakfast/lunch. But we finally managed to get ourselves in hiking mode and back on the trail. It was a very pleasant afternoon hiking across the final few high bluffs and gullies of the Suwannee. Late in the day, almost to the end of our massive 3 miles hike, Mike was walking about 30 -40 ft ahead of me and scared up a small black bear, which burst out of the palmetto brush beside me before plunging back in in surprise when he saw me. He didn't sound like he went far, and Mike has not yet seen a bear on his trip, so we waited a while to see if he would re-emerge, but he must have rustled quiety off unseen.
View more photos in my Picasa album
Monday, January 22, 2007
Backpacking the Swamp
So finally we get to the real purpose of the trip...the backpacking. We set off on Wednesday morning and hiked the remainder of the road section through the Seminole Reservation, then finally left the road for the forest. The dirt forest road we followed gradually turned to grass, and we passed out of the Reservation and into Big Cypress Preserve.
Our night at Nobles campsite was perfect. The campsite was on an old unused airfield now turned to grass meadow. There was good clear water available from a nearby pond, and the breezy night was filled with lightning bugs and stars (and just a few mosquitos), and nothing but the sounds of nature around us. In the morning I saw a couple of white tail dear running off into the early mist. From Nobles, we continued heading south along an old lime rock road to the I75 underpass and rest area. It was a hot day again, with very little shade or breeze. The canal alongside the road held lots of very large gators and turtles, and the trees beside it were full of wood storks, ibis and herons.
South of I75 is wilderness. The drainage canals and rock roads that have accompanied the trail since (and around) Lake Okeechobee disappear. The trail is now a trodden path, sometimes following a dirt buggy road, sometimes cross country or just following the lay of the terrain. This area in only 25 - 40 feet above sea level, and is frequently flooded. We are lucky enough to be tackling it after a relatively dry spell. Hurricane Wilma late in 2005 made this area particularly wet for last years hiking season and forced me to abandon my previous plans to backpack here then. However, drier is a relative term in wetland terms. The trail soon turned to 6 inch deep slimy sticky mud, and then to water. The remainder of the day was spent wading in knee deep water over the 6 inches of mud. As the sun started to set we picked out a hammock of higher, drier ground close the the trail and made camp, which we shared with the usual collection of swamp creatures, including a leopard frog, which unfortunately disappeared in the moment it took me to turn to reach for my camera, and an owl or two in the trees above.
The next day was more of the same. We were off the trail, but did apparently bump into it at one stage, as we passed the 29 mile marker in the center of an old underwater roadway. The Orange blazes here are very weather worn, and really not at all obvious on the trees, if it's not right in front of you, and the is no obvious path through the water where the trail should be, it is very hard to stay on the trail. We were following this roadway because it was an obvious course to follow given the absence of obvious hiking trail. It was heading in the right general direction, and there is often a ridge of slightly higher mud in the center of the trail, but the water is still knee deep, and reaches to mid thigh deep in other places. And the water is still over the silty mud. It is clear until the sediment is stirred up by hiking through, so water collection was not a problem.
Taking a break from the hot sun is the biggest issue in this section. The cypress trees are bare or just starting to sprout at this time of year, and there are very few dry areas to sit for a break. Fortunately, as sundown approached, we entered a high and dry, mixed pine and palmetto forest area where we made camp.
We didn't know it at the time, but that was the last we were to see of the wetlands for a while. The terrain stayed mixed pine and palmetto, with grasslands and sawgrass fields, and DRY. Dry as in not a drop of water to be found. After having had clear water available and everywhere for almost two days, and having carried about 20lbs of water each, by the next night, having not seen a drop of standing water all day, we were now rationning water. Around noon we had actually picked up the blazed trail again, and stopped at a trail campsite with a pipe well, hoping to top up our water supply. The usually long enough hose reached nothing, so we continued on. A couple of miles later a group of 4 ATV'ers pulled over and hailed us. They had fresh COLD water to spare and filled up several quarts for us. True trail magic on such a hot day.
The trail here is in need of some maintenance. We lost the blazes several times, and were sometimes bushwacking through palmettos and sawgrass. Underfoot is a karst limestone base, with deep, sometimes seemingly bottomless, ankle grabbing potholes, requiring full attention to where each foot was placed, and not really allowing any rhythm to develop. The pace was only around a mile per hour for the worst spots, except in the grassy spots where we were able to increase it a little. By sundown and as the light faded enough that the blazes were no longer visible on the trees, we had about 10.5 miles to go to the next reliable water at the Oasis Visitor Center. Even with the extra water, we knew that we'd have to ration our water until we had a chance to resupply. Hiking on in the dark may have been an option if the trail were more obvious, but the past several miles had proved that we would both have to concentrate on our footing, to prevent injury, as well as the trail blazes, to stay on track. Doing both in the dark was not an option tonight. We took 2 steps off the trail and made camp, opting to go straight to bed and sleep. Neither of us wanted to use water for food, and sitting around talking would have used more water than sleeping. We were both asleep within an hour, though I do confess to having spent a little time hallucinating about real, non re-hydrated food. Not from hunger, but just from the desire to eat something that hadn't needed a freshness pack!
Next morning, we were up before light, packed up, and ready to leave as soon as the light allowed. We skipped the morning coffee ritual, preferring a cup of plain water instead, and both had enough water left to get us to Oasis especially as the first several miles would be hiked in the cooler morning air. We were fresh from the sleep, and raring to get going. Our other incentive to get going is the possibility of surface water at Ten mile camp, and Seven mile camp. IF we find water at either we would stop and have breakfast, coffee and supplement our water for the remainder of the day.
Ten Mile camp had no water, so we hiked on. As we rounded the corner approaching Seven Mile campsite we stopped and looked at each other asking "Do you smell coffee?" Sure enough, a party of 3 Chilean men was out camping, cooking taco bread from scratch over a fire, and boiling hot sweet coffee. They greeted us and offered to share. Can you just imagine turning that down? So we sat sipping the coffee elixir, and they even offered a couple of 16oz bottles of water. Enough to top us up for the remaining 7 miles, and also to cook and share a rehydrated meal! More trail magic. An hour or so later, refreshed and fed, we set off for the final stretch.
We actually found our first surface water in two days about 3 miles further down the trail, in the form of 4 muddy puddles in ruts on a dirt road. Having topped up and with only 4 miles still to hike, we passed it up, but had we not been filled up, we would have been filtering ourselves some puddle water for sure! Shortly after the puddles we crossed paths with first a Church group out camping for the weekend, then a little closer in, started to see more lightly clad walkers. Seeing couples out walking in jeans and clean t-shirts, and all their day's belongings in a plastic walmart bag is always a good sign that you're close to the trailhead. The last two miles seemed incredibly long though.
So, now we're at Oasis. No water worries, surrounded by gator watching tourists, stinky and sweaty from five days of hiking, and ready to eat real food. There's just the little matter of the other car still being a 200 mile round trip away again, but we have other priorities first, a shower and food being the most important. The rest of the day is spent on such trivial matters.
On Monday morning we were back at Oasis with two vehicles. The plan for the day involved dropping one car, and driving round to the southern terminus at Loop Rd. For this last day of our southbound hike, we actually hiked northbound back to the car.
The trail started out muddy, but not underwater as it was when I hiked it this time last year. This bodes well for a drier, quicker hiking day today, though we started out much later than we anticipated. After about 4 miles we stopped at the Frog Hammock campsite with it's pitcher pump. What we would have done to see one of these yesterday! Not that we needed it today, but we couldn't get water out of it anyway, because there was no water in the pitcher to prime it with. Had we needed it we'd have hiked back out on the trail to a puddle to fill it, but there again, if there were puddles, we wouldn't have needed the pump! Whatever!
After the hammock the trail became wetter and we were again walking in ankle deep water as we entered Robert's Strand. The strands are the areas in the wetlands where there is flowing water. It is a beautiful, lush pocket of swamp landscape on the otherwise grassy and forested prairie, and it is where the majority of the wildlife congregates. The Strand was also where we found our first piece of wildlife to be a little more cautious about for the day. As we pushed through a stand of ferns, sitting about 3 or 4 feet high in the topmost fronds was our first cottonmouth. He was aware we were there, and watched us as carefully as we watch him as we slowly and gently edged around his resting place.
The water flows slowly in the strand, and is deeper than it had been on the wetlands. The deepest parts were about midcalf or up to the knee, but the stumps and roots below the surface make navigation rather slower. On the north side of the Strand the trail the trail turned back to wet through cypress forest. There were literally thousands of bromeliads on the trees there. It must be an incredible sight when the are all blooming, though we only saw a few starting into their bloom.
As tempting as it was to look at the Bromeliads, we found another, more vital excuse to keep our eyes on the ground. As the trail rose a little, the water receded to puddles and mud again, and in a puddle in the middle of the trail we found our next cottonmouth, wriggling around in a muddy puddle. Then we found one sitting by the side of the trail. Then one stretched out in the trail. Then one in a stump where we hoped to stop for a brief rest, then another in the trail, and another, and, well, you get the picture. They were literally everywhere for a couple of miles. Some just stayed coiled and unconcerned, other than watching us as we carefully passed, some were already agiitated as we approached and either wriggled around in front of us, or stretched determinedly in our path. We had to probe ahead at every step, to both sides, and in the center of the trail before stepping forward. It was very slow going. Neither of us even wanted to consider walking off in the drier grass to the side.
Paying such close attention to the mud at our feet did make us aware of all the other tracks in the mud, in addition to ours. In addition to the raccoon, deer, heron, bobcat, and panther track we had been seeing on the trail all week, we also saw tiny mouse print tracks, and our first "for definite" bear tracks. We surmized that the abundance of snakes was probably due to the drying puddles. Small fish were flopping and dying in the puddles as they evaporated, attracting birds and probably the mice and other small animals to an easy meal. The snakes were assumably just hanging around on the trail highway waiting for the next meal to come come running by. They weren't really interested in us other than for us to move on quickly so the could get on with the wait undisturbed. Apart from slowing us down a lot, the snakes caused no harm, and the bear never materialized.
We made it back to Oasis late afternoon, muddy, but well hydrated, and happy at having completed this strenuous section. Having completed the circumnavigation of Lake Okeechobee back in November, this now means that every time we look at a Florida Trail map we get the satisfying feeling of having completed everything up to the top of the Lake.
View more photos in my Picasa album
Our night at Nobles campsite was perfect. The campsite was on an old unused airfield now turned to grass meadow. There was good clear water available from a nearby pond, and the breezy night was filled with lightning bugs and stars (and just a few mosquitos), and nothing but the sounds of nature around us. In the morning I saw a couple of white tail dear running off into the early mist. From Nobles, we continued heading south along an old lime rock road to the I75 underpass and rest area. It was a hot day again, with very little shade or breeze. The canal alongside the road held lots of very large gators and turtles, and the trees beside it were full of wood storks, ibis and herons.
South of I75 is wilderness. The drainage canals and rock roads that have accompanied the trail since (and around) Lake Okeechobee disappear. The trail is now a trodden path, sometimes following a dirt buggy road, sometimes cross country or just following the lay of the terrain. This area in only 25 - 40 feet above sea level, and is frequently flooded. We are lucky enough to be tackling it after a relatively dry spell. Hurricane Wilma late in 2005 made this area particularly wet for last years hiking season and forced me to abandon my previous plans to backpack here then. However, drier is a relative term in wetland terms. The trail soon turned to 6 inch deep slimy sticky mud, and then to water. The remainder of the day was spent wading in knee deep water over the 6 inches of mud. As the sun started to set we picked out a hammock of higher, drier ground close the the trail and made camp, which we shared with the usual collection of swamp creatures, including a leopard frog, which unfortunately disappeared in the moment it took me to turn to reach for my camera, and an owl or two in the trees above. The next day was more of the same. We were off the trail, but did apparently bump into it at one stage, as we passed the 29 mile marker in the center of an old underwater roadway. The Orange blazes here are very weather worn, and really not at all obvious on the trees, if it's not right in front of you, and the is no obvious path through the water where the trail should be, it is very hard to stay on the trail. We were following this roadway because it was an obvious course to follow given the absence of obvious hiking trail. It was heading in the right general direction, and there is often a ridge of slightly higher mud in the center of the trail, but the water is still knee deep, and reaches to mid thigh deep in other places. And the water is still over the silty mud. It is clear until the sediment is stirred up by hiking through, so water collection was not a problem.
Taking a break from the hot sun is the biggest issue in this section. The cypress trees are bare or just starting to sprout at this time of year, and there are very few dry areas to sit for a break. Fortunately, as sundown approached, we entered a high and dry, mixed pine and palmetto forest area where we made camp.
We didn't know it at the time, but that was the last we were to see of the wetlands for a while. The terrain stayed mixed pine and palmetto, with grasslands and sawgrass fields, and DRY. Dry as in not a drop of water to be found. After having had clear water available and everywhere for almost two days, and having carried about 20lbs of water each, by the next night, having not seen a drop of standing water all day, we were now rationning water. Around noon we had actually picked up the blazed trail again, and stopped at a trail campsite with a pipe well, hoping to top up our water supply. The usually long enough hose reached nothing, so we continued on. A couple of miles later a group of 4 ATV'ers pulled over and hailed us. They had fresh COLD water to spare and filled up several quarts for us. True trail magic on such a hot day.
The trail here is in need of some maintenance. We lost the blazes several times, and were sometimes bushwacking through palmettos and sawgrass. Underfoot is a karst limestone base, with deep, sometimes seemingly bottomless, ankle grabbing potholes, requiring full attention to where each foot was placed, and not really allowing any rhythm to develop. The pace was only around a mile per hour for the worst spots, except in the grassy spots where we were able to increase it a little. By sundown and as the light faded enough that the blazes were no longer visible on the trees, we had about 10.5 miles to go to the next reliable water at the Oasis Visitor Center. Even with the extra water, we knew that we'd have to ration our water until we had a chance to resupply. Hiking on in the dark may have been an option if the trail were more obvious, but the past several miles had proved that we would both have to concentrate on our footing, to prevent injury, as well as the trail blazes, to stay on track. Doing both in the dark was not an option tonight. We took 2 steps off the trail and made camp, opting to go straight to bed and sleep. Neither of us wanted to use water for food, and sitting around talking would have used more water than sleeping. We were both asleep within an hour, though I do confess to having spent a little time hallucinating about real, non re-hydrated food. Not from hunger, but just from the desire to eat something that hadn't needed a freshness pack!
Next morning, we were up before light, packed up, and ready to leave as soon as the light allowed. We skipped the morning coffee ritual, preferring a cup of plain water instead, and both had enough water left to get us to Oasis especially as the first several miles would be hiked in the cooler morning air. We were fresh from the sleep, and raring to get going. Our other incentive to get going is the possibility of surface water at Ten mile camp, and Seven mile camp. IF we find water at either we would stop and have breakfast, coffee and supplement our water for the remainder of the day.
Ten Mile camp had no water, so we hiked on. As we rounded the corner approaching Seven Mile campsite we stopped and looked at each other asking "Do you smell coffee?" Sure enough, a party of 3 Chilean men was out camping, cooking taco bread from scratch over a fire, and boiling hot sweet coffee. They greeted us and offered to share. Can you just imagine turning that down? So we sat sipping the coffee elixir, and they even offered a couple of 16oz bottles of water. Enough to top us up for the remaining 7 miles, and also to cook and share a rehydrated meal! More trail magic. An hour or so later, refreshed and fed, we set off for the final stretch. We actually found our first surface water in two days about 3 miles further down the trail, in the form of 4 muddy puddles in ruts on a dirt road. Having topped up and with only 4 miles still to hike, we passed it up, but had we not been filled up, we would have been filtering ourselves some puddle water for sure! Shortly after the puddles we crossed paths with first a Church group out camping for the weekend, then a little closer in, started to see more lightly clad walkers. Seeing couples out walking in jeans and clean t-shirts, and all their day's belongings in a plastic walmart bag is always a good sign that you're close to the trailhead. The last two miles seemed incredibly long though.
So, now we're at Oasis. No water worries, surrounded by gator watching tourists, stinky and sweaty from five days of hiking, and ready to eat real food. There's just the little matter of the other car still being a 200 mile round trip away again, but we have other priorities first, a shower and food being the most important. The rest of the day is spent on such trivial matters.
On Monday morning we were back at Oasis with two vehicles. The plan for the day involved dropping one car, and driving round to the southern terminus at Loop Rd. For this last day of our southbound hike, we actually hiked northbound back to the car.
The trail started out muddy, but not underwater as it was when I hiked it this time last year. This bodes well for a drier, quicker hiking day today, though we started out much later than we anticipated. After about 4 miles we stopped at the Frog Hammock campsite with it's pitcher pump. What we would have done to see one of these yesterday! Not that we needed it today, but we couldn't get water out of it anyway, because there was no water in the pitcher to prime it with. Had we needed it we'd have hiked back out on the trail to a puddle to fill it, but there again, if there were puddles, we wouldn't have needed the pump! Whatever!
After the hammock the trail became wetter and we were again walking in ankle deep water as we entered Robert's Strand. The strands are the areas in the wetlands where there is flowing water. It is a beautiful, lush pocket of swamp landscape on the otherwise grassy and forested prairie, and it is where the majority of the wildlife congregates. The Strand was also where we found our first piece of wildlife to be a little more cautious about for the day. As we pushed through a stand of ferns, sitting about 3 or 4 feet high in the topmost fronds was our first cottonmouth. He was aware we were there, and watched us as carefully as we watch him as we slowly and gently edged around his resting place.
The water flows slowly in the strand, and is deeper than it had been on the wetlands. The deepest parts were about midcalf or up to the knee, but the stumps and roots below the surface make navigation rather slower. On the north side of the Strand the trail the trail turned back to wet through cypress forest. There were literally thousands of bromeliads on the trees there. It must be an incredible sight when the are all blooming, though we only saw a few starting into their bloom.
As tempting as it was to look at the Bromeliads, we found another, more vital excuse to keep our eyes on the ground. As the trail rose a little, the water receded to puddles and mud again, and in a puddle in the middle of the trail we found our next cottonmouth, wriggling around in a muddy puddle. Then we found one sitting by the side of the trail. Then one stretched out in the trail. Then one in a stump where we hoped to stop for a brief rest, then another in the trail, and another, and, well, you get the picture. They were literally everywhere for a couple of miles. Some just stayed coiled and unconcerned, other than watching us as we carefully passed, some were already agiitated as we approached and either wriggled around in front of us, or stretched determinedly in our path. We had to probe ahead at every step, to both sides, and in the center of the trail before stepping forward. It was very slow going. Neither of us even wanted to consider walking off in the drier grass to the side.
Paying such close attention to the mud at our feet did make us aware of all the other tracks in the mud, in addition to ours. In addition to the raccoon, deer, heron, bobcat, and panther track we had been seeing on the trail all week, we also saw tiny mouse print tracks, and our first "for definite" bear tracks. We surmized that the abundance of snakes was probably due to the drying puddles. Small fish were flopping and dying in the puddles as they evaporated, attracting birds and probably the mice and other small animals to an easy meal. The snakes were assumably just hanging around on the trail highway waiting for the next meal to come come running by. They weren't really interested in us other than for us to move on quickly so the could get on with the wait undisturbed. Apart from slowing us down a lot, the snakes caused no harm, and the bear never materialized.
We made it back to Oasis late afternoon, muddy, but well hydrated, and happy at having completed this strenuous section. Having completed the circumnavigation of Lake Okeechobee back in November, this now means that every time we look at a Florida Trail map we get the satisfying feeling of having completed everything up to the top of the Lake.
View more photos in my Picasa album
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Seminole Reservation
The southernmost 100 mile section of the Florida Trail enters the Big Cypress National Preserve through mixed cypress and pine forest, grasslands and swamp, then enters the Seminole Reservation and continues up to the southwest corner of Lake Okeechobee following paved and dirt roads and dikes along canals for about 50 miles. The northern half is easily acessible, and allows fairly fast paced walking, while the southern is a lightly maintained trail with varying strenuous conditions and allows only a much slower walking pace. We have allowed about 10 days to hike this entire section, but have decided to tackle the northernmost section first, and travel southward to the Big Cypress Seminole Reservation is a series of higher mileage days to give us an opportunity to get our legs back in shape before donning the heavier weight packs that we'd need to tote through the swamps.
The first day was long and dusty, and hard on the feet. On the road sections we were constantly accompanied by heavy sugar cane trucks rumbling by at high speed kicking up clouds of dust and debris. The trail was easy enough to follow using the maps and data points, but very sparsely blazed. We set off later than anticipated, and took it easy, the legs weren't quite as willing as the minds after the excesses of Christmas and New Year! We finally made it back to the car just at sunset. The highlights of the day weres seeing several dust devils forming in the bare sugar cane fields, an actual meeting with other hikers, who had set off from the Southern terminus 2 weeks earlier and were headed for Pensacola, and a pleasant sunset for our last mile or so (which felt more like three!)
Our second day was a 13 mile straight line hike down the east side of the never deviating L3 canal (pictures right), then a right angle turn to the west for the final 2 miles straight line to the closest place we had been able to get the car. There was not much scenery except the canal, and the agriculture on either of these two days. Though we did see many alligators and birds, and the occasional field of horses and cows. The cows seemed very skittish of hikers, We noticed on both these 2 days that whenever the data book mentionned a reasonable place to camp, we could pretty much guarantee seeing one or more gators at the same place. That just made us feel better about our decision to day hike this section from a civilized campground with a coffee pot and showers!
The third and final day of dayhiking was entirely roadwalk into the Seminole Reservation. There was much less breeze on this day than there had been for the first two, making for a much hotter walk, which was exacerbated by opting to hike in the dry ditch alongside the road, rather than on the actual road shoulder. The best part of the day though was that it was shorter mileage than the previous two had been, and there was a convenience store - "Dusti's" a couple of miles from the end where we took advantage of their cool breezy chickee to enjoy a cold soda and a hot tamale
On day four we shuttled one vehicle down to the Oasis Visitor center, about 8 hiking miles from the southern terminus of the trail, and only about 50 hiking miles from our campground, but requiring an almost 200 mile round trip car journey. We wanted to set off early and maybe do some sightseeing and reprovisioning on the drive. This pretty, misty, sunrise was the first reward for getting up early.
Fakahatchee Preserve One of our sightseeing stops was at the Fakahatchee State Preserve. (US41 west of US29). The 1/2 mile boardwalk runs into the Fakahatchee Strand. We passed a bald eagle nest on the walk, though didn't see the owner, and we were lucky enough to reach the viewing area at the end when no-one else was around. There was a plethora of wildlife there, and all you had to do was stand quietly to observe it. Anhingas were fishing, making the fish jump from the pond, and there were gators, herons, lizards all around.
Back on the road, the next stop was the Ochopee Post Office (US41 east of US29), reputed as the smallest Post Office in the US.
View more photos in my Picasa album
The first day was long and dusty, and hard on the feet. On the road sections we were constantly accompanied by heavy sugar cane trucks rumbling by at high speed kicking up clouds of dust and debris. The trail was easy enough to follow using the maps and data points, but very sparsely blazed. We set off later than anticipated, and took it easy, the legs weren't quite as willing as the minds after the excesses of Christmas and New Year! We finally made it back to the car just at sunset. The highlights of the day weres seeing several dust devils forming in the bare sugar cane fields, an actual meeting with other hikers, who had set off from the Southern terminus 2 weeks earlier and were headed for Pensacola, and a pleasant sunset for our last mile or so (which felt more like three!)
Our second day was a 13 mile straight line hike down the east side of the never deviating L3 canal (pictures right), then a right angle turn to the west for the final 2 miles straight line to the closest place we had been able to get the car. There was not much scenery except the canal, and the agriculture on either of these two days. Though we did see many alligators and birds, and the occasional field of horses and cows. The cows seemed very skittish of hikers, We noticed on both these 2 days that whenever the data book mentionned a reasonable place to camp, we could pretty much guarantee seeing one or more gators at the same place. That just made us feel better about our decision to day hike this section from a civilized campground with a coffee pot and showers! The third and final day of dayhiking was entirely roadwalk into the Seminole Reservation. There was much less breeze on this day than there had been for the first two, making for a much hotter walk, which was exacerbated by opting to hike in the dry ditch alongside the road, rather than on the actual road shoulder. The best part of the day though was that it was shorter mileage than the previous two had been, and there was a convenience store - "Dusti's" a couple of miles from the end where we took advantage of their cool breezy chickee to enjoy a cold soda and a hot tamale
On day four we shuttled one vehicle down to the Oasis Visitor center, about 8 hiking miles from the southern terminus of the trail, and only about 50 hiking miles from our campground, but requiring an almost 200 mile round trip car journey. We wanted to set off early and maybe do some sightseeing and reprovisioning on the drive. This pretty, misty, sunrise was the first reward for getting up early.
Fakahatchee Preserve One of our sightseeing stops was at the Fakahatchee State Preserve. (US41 west of US29). The 1/2 mile boardwalk runs into the Fakahatchee Strand. We passed a bald eagle nest on the walk, though didn't see the owner, and we were lucky enough to reach the viewing area at the end when no-one else was around. There was a plethora of wildlife there, and all you had to do was stand quietly to observe it. Anhingas were fishing, making the fish jump from the pond, and there were gators, herons, lizards all around. Back on the road, the next stop was the Ochopee Post Office (US41 east of US29), reputed as the smallest Post Office in the US.
View more photos in my Picasa album
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Big O
The "Big O" is a nine day series of 9 to 14 mile day hikes that circumnavigates Lake Okeechobee, the second largest lake entirely within the US. The trail around the Lake is called the Lake Okeechobee Sceneic Trail (LOST). It is located on the top of the Herbert Hoover Dike which completely surrounds the lake and protects the local area from flooding during a hurricane. The Florida Trail utilizes the LOST. Florida Trail hikers have the choice of hiking the East or West side of the Lake. I decided I would do the complete circumnavigation of the Lake instead of choosing sides. There is no shade on the trail, so it is preferable to hike it in cooler weather. While there is a good amount of birds and wildlife, the scenery is basically the same for 110 miles. I decided to hike the lake section with the Florida Trail group that hikes it annually during Thanksgiving week. Friend Ian also wanted to get this section out of the way so he will not have to tackle it in warmer weather during his thru hike.
View more photos in my Picasa album
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Building Monkey Creek Bridge
Monkey Creek is in the Apalachicola National Forest. Florida Trail's F-Troop trail crew is rebuilding an 80' bridge that will take the trail over the creek replacing an old washed out bridge. They have called for volinteers to assist with the project, so I thought it would make a nice first time F-Troop volunteer week for me. A base camp has been set up a short distance from the work site. Some volunteers will spend the entire 10 days at the prtoject, others will spend the weekend, a couple of days, or travel in daily. Before the construction starts will be a Ropes and Rigging training starting early Saturday morning. It's a good 6 - 7 hour drive for me to get to the site, so I planned to arriving on Friday night, then camp for a week and leave the following Thursday or Friday.
The project started with a rigging training involving a presentation of what can be achieved without machinery, but utilizing human labor and rigging techniques, rigging terminology, equipment, etc. After learning some of the theories of using rigging to use limited muscle power, and maximum brain power to move objects larger than could be moved using strength alone. We had a demonstration of how many pounds of pull strength the average person has. It was about equal to body weight. To show how rigging can increase that pull strength, a full size truck was attached to a tree with a wire rope, rope pulleys, and anchors, then I pulled it several inches just by pulling the center of the rope.
The base camp was either 1/2 mile, or almost 2 miles walk through the forest from the bridge site, depending who you ask, and whether they guesstimated or actually measured with a GPS! It's a pleasant walk, and most walked it at least once. Additionally, the Forest Service had "improved" a dirt road into the site that was suitable for high clearance vehicles. There were enough trucks available to provide rides to and from the worksite daily.
Monkey Creek has an existing bridge crossing, but it was washed off its foundations during a high flow several years ago, and now sits at a precarious angle, wedged in a tree. Hikers are currently advised to wade the creek as long as the water is not high. The new bridge is 80' long, and will sit on top of the creek's banks, well clear of regular water levels, and about 1/4 mile downstream of the old bridge site. Part of the weeks work will involved dismantling the old bridge and rerouting the trail to the new crossing point.
The water level in the creek is currently very low. That's great news from the construction point of view, as we won't have to risk life and limb to struggle across the creek. Two large steps would easily get a hiker across the water, but rugged construction experts that we are, we placed a 12' 2 x 10 plank or two across the water to save us even having to get our boots wet! I have to admit, it did seem rather funny to me to be replacing this with an 80' bridge! However, construction was obviously planned for the time of year when water levels are lowest. I have not seen the creek in flood, and it does have fairly steep banks. I'm sure that at higher water levels there would be considerable risk to crossing due to the water depth.
The area of the creek is a pleasant gently flowing backwater, with still, clear, tannin colored pools lined by white sand, gnarled twisted cypress knees, and shady pine forest. Reflections of blue skies on the brown water, and the occasional mushrooms just completed the picture. It's a beatuiful spot, and would have been very serene if there were not 30 construction workers immediately overhead and around.
Serenity was not too far though. About 1/4 mile downstream of the bridge site Monkey Creek flows into the Sopchoppy River. The ten minute walk down to the confluence was a popular lunchtime activity. If anything, the Sopchoppy seemed even darker tannin stained than Monkey Creek, almost to a deep red tea. The river turns a 90 degree bend immediately before the confluence. The river level is low right now, giving access to the flat white sand edges of the river, below the steep 10' - 15' banks. This minature gorge is filled with the exposed roots and limbs of Cypress trees that are evidence of scouring when the water is higher.
About 1/4 mile upstream of the bridge site the trail crosses the creek at the site or the old bridge which was washed off it's support several years ago in a flood and has been wedged up against a tree since. A small crew spent a day dismantling the old bridge and relocating the used timbers up to the new bridge site. Some of the old material will be used temporarily during the construction process, some will be used for construction of a ramp up onto the new bridge, and the remainder will be removed at the end of the project. The Florida Trail will be re-routed to the new bridge location when it is completed.
At the construction site, on the first day, was organized chaos! The ground was strewn with piles of the bridge kit pieces that will eventually become the 80’ free spanning bridge. The pieces are made of a light-weight fiberglass composite material, precut and predrilled. Lightweight is a relative term, many of the pieces are large and/or long, and flexible. They require several bodies to move them. Our job is to take the piles of pieces, the instructions, and a couple of boxes of bolts and joints and make a bridge out of it all.
The plan was: Assemble the two 80' side trusses first, and utilize the rigging training to hoist each side truss over the river with a highline system, set them into place onto the abutments that have already been built by the trail crew, then add the extra side supports and the foot tread between. Sounds easy enough!
Except no-one realy knew what they were doing, or supposed to be doing. We swarmed the truss pieces, grabbing uprights, joints, bolts, washer and nuts and began putting everything together. Everyone was anxious to do something, and the way we were working you'd think we thought we could get it built in a day. As the afternoon wore on, those smart enough to take a break sat on the abutment on the far side of the creek, looking longingly like they were expecting a bridge to come over any moment.
As the bulk of the crew worked on the bridge pieces, work was also progressing on the other element of the construction: Creating a rigging system to move the partially completed 80' long, heavy but very flexible trusses down the bank and across the creek. An essential part of that system is the spar, a tall strong pole which will bear the weight of the bridge. For this job, two spars, one on each side of the creek, and a sky line strung between. Suitable tall straight pine trees are identified, cut down, branches removed, and then the bark is shaved to allow the tree to be checked for cracks, etc, and to make a smoother surface for the straps that will hold winches, cables, etc. The end product looks like a telphone pole. A hole is then dug at the location the spar will be raised, and ropes, cables, and winches used to lift it into place.
Meanwhile, the piles of bridge pieces dwindle as the side trusses take shape. First one side, then the other, the kit is bolted together, tightened, torqued, jacked up and cambered. Finally we had two complete trusses ready to move. The trusses are temporarily supported upright with braces and ropes. The permanent side supports will not be added until after the bridge is in place. The 80' trusses are solid and stable while they are supported upright, but flex like a wet noodle when moved unsupported. An additional issue that was not anticipated, is that the uprights of the bridge extend about 6" below the lower support beam. This means that the truss will not be able to slide along the ground, but will have to be supported so the uprights do not dig into the ground, then moved along on roller logs until the truss is far enough forward along the sky line to be lifted completely off the ground.
A final check is made of the spar poles, guy lines checked and tightened, and we're ready to lift the bridge. This is the most complex part of the construction, and the most dangerous. Once the winch is tightened and bearing the weight of part, and then all of the truss, care must be taken at each of the wire ropes. They will all be under differing stress depending on where the weight is placed at any given moment. We are all given constant safety briefings and warnings. People are stationed at each pole and guy wire, and others are positioned to brace the bridge with ropes to prevent lateral movement as the bridge moves forward. ...and we're off! At first the leading edge is lifted off the ground, and the rear is rolled forward inches or feet at a time. Once the front half of the first truss is "flying". With a brakeman in the rear to prevent the entire truss from flying down the line out of control, the rear is also lifted up on the skyline and the entire truss is airborne. A crew on the far side pulls, the brakeman releases slowly, and the truss inches it's way to the other side of the creek.
As the truss progressed down into the creek, those 6' lower extensions of the uprights became an issue again, and additional bracing, log rolling, and a little manual jacking and lifting was needed to complete the journey over the creek. But the pulling contined, and the creek was soon crossed, and both ends of the truss steered to their abutments. The first truss was positioned, bolted, and braced into position.
Now the process just has to be repeated for the second truss. Before starting the second movement the crew practiced on the winches and ropes by moving the wooden footing planks cross the creek on the skyline. Unfortunately, the great weather we have had so far for construction failed us at this stage. Just as the second truss was attached to the skyline and began it's ariel journey a storm was approaching. Severe weather was reported west of us. High winds and tornadoes were possible. Debris and small branches were already falling from the trees above us, and the Forest Service declared the worksite was to be cleared. We secured the half moved truss as tight as possible, cleared up the worksite to remove or secure and potentail flying objects, and returned to camp.
And that was where my first F-Troop project had to end. I was supposed to leave the next day anyway, but with the threat of severe weather, the sleepless night that would ensue trying to sleep in a windblown tent, and especially the idea of having to pack up a wet tent in the morning, I decided to pack up and head for home tonight instead. I would have loved to stay another day, especially if it meant seeing the bridge completed, but I have a hiking trip planned starting early Saturday morning. I doubt at this stage that I would see the bridge completed before Friday afternoon, which would be the very latest I could leave to do the 400 mile drive down to the start point, and get my laundry done too.
But that's OK. I now have an excuse to return soon to this trail section to hike it and cross the newly completed bridge myself. I won't have the experience or the pictures of the final stages of completion, but I know which bolts I put in myself, and I'll be able to come visit them and still feel the accomplishment of being a small part of the construction.
View more photos in my Picasa album
The project started with a rigging training involving a presentation of what can be achieved without machinery, but utilizing human labor and rigging techniques, rigging terminology, equipment, etc. After learning some of the theories of using rigging to use limited muscle power, and maximum brain power to move objects larger than could be moved using strength alone. We had a demonstration of how many pounds of pull strength the average person has. It was about equal to body weight. To show how rigging can increase that pull strength, a full size truck was attached to a tree with a wire rope, rope pulleys, and anchors, then I pulled it several inches just by pulling the center of the rope. The base camp was either 1/2 mile, or almost 2 miles walk through the forest from the bridge site, depending who you ask, and whether they guesstimated or actually measured with a GPS! It's a pleasant walk, and most walked it at least once. Additionally, the Forest Service had "improved" a dirt road into the site that was suitable for high clearance vehicles. There were enough trucks available to provide rides to and from the worksite daily.
Monkey Creek has an existing bridge crossing, but it was washed off its foundations during a high flow several years ago, and now sits at a precarious angle, wedged in a tree. Hikers are currently advised to wade the creek as long as the water is not high. The new bridge is 80' long, and will sit on top of the creek's banks, well clear of regular water levels, and about 1/4 mile downstream of the old bridge site. Part of the weeks work will involved dismantling the old bridge and rerouting the trail to the new crossing point.
The water level in the creek is currently very low. That's great news from the construction point of view, as we won't have to risk life and limb to struggle across the creek. Two large steps would easily get a hiker across the water, but rugged construction experts that we are, we placed a 12' 2 x 10 plank or two across the water to save us even having to get our boots wet! I have to admit, it did seem rather funny to me to be replacing this with an 80' bridge! However, construction was obviously planned for the time of year when water levels are lowest. I have not seen the creek in flood, and it does have fairly steep banks. I'm sure that at higher water levels there would be considerable risk to crossing due to the water depth. The area of the creek is a pleasant gently flowing backwater, with still, clear, tannin colored pools lined by white sand, gnarled twisted cypress knees, and shady pine forest. Reflections of blue skies on the brown water, and the occasional mushrooms just completed the picture. It's a beatuiful spot, and would have been very serene if there were not 30 construction workers immediately overhead and around.
Serenity was not too far though. About 1/4 mile downstream of the bridge site Monkey Creek flows into the Sopchoppy River. The ten minute walk down to the confluence was a popular lunchtime activity. If anything, the Sopchoppy seemed even darker tannin stained than Monkey Creek, almost to a deep red tea. The river turns a 90 degree bend immediately before the confluence. The river level is low right now, giving access to the flat white sand edges of the river, below the steep 10' - 15' banks. This minature gorge is filled with the exposed roots and limbs of Cypress trees that are evidence of scouring when the water is higher.
About 1/4 mile upstream of the bridge site the trail crosses the creek at the site or the old bridge which was washed off it's support several years ago in a flood and has been wedged up against a tree since. A small crew spent a day dismantling the old bridge and relocating the used timbers up to the new bridge site. Some of the old material will be used temporarily during the construction process, some will be used for construction of a ramp up onto the new bridge, and the remainder will be removed at the end of the project. The Florida Trail will be re-routed to the new bridge location when it is completed. At the construction site, on the first day, was organized chaos! The ground was strewn with piles of the bridge kit pieces that will eventually become the 80’ free spanning bridge. The pieces are made of a light-weight fiberglass composite material, precut and predrilled. Lightweight is a relative term, many of the pieces are large and/or long, and flexible. They require several bodies to move them. Our job is to take the piles of pieces, the instructions, and a couple of boxes of bolts and joints and make a bridge out of it all.
The plan was: Assemble the two 80' side trusses first, and utilize the rigging training to hoist each side truss over the river with a highline system, set them into place onto the abutments that have already been built by the trail crew, then add the extra side supports and the foot tread between. Sounds easy enough!
Except no-one realy knew what they were doing, or supposed to be doing. We swarmed the truss pieces, grabbing uprights, joints, bolts, washer and nuts and began putting everything together. Everyone was anxious to do something, and the way we were working you'd think we thought we could get it built in a day. As the afternoon wore on, those smart enough to take a break sat on the abutment on the far side of the creek, looking longingly like they were expecting a bridge to come over any moment.
As the bulk of the crew worked on the bridge pieces, work was also progressing on the other element of the construction: Creating a rigging system to move the partially completed 80' long, heavy but very flexible trusses down the bank and across the creek. An essential part of that system is the spar, a tall strong pole which will bear the weight of the bridge. For this job, two spars, one on each side of the creek, and a sky line strung between. Suitable tall straight pine trees are identified, cut down, branches removed, and then the bark is shaved to allow the tree to be checked for cracks, etc, and to make a smoother surface for the straps that will hold winches, cables, etc. The end product looks like a telphone pole. A hole is then dug at the location the spar will be raised, and ropes, cables, and winches used to lift it into place. 
Meanwhile, the piles of bridge pieces dwindle as the side trusses take shape. First one side, then the other, the kit is bolted together, tightened, torqued, jacked up and cambered. Finally we had two complete trusses ready to move. The trusses are temporarily supported upright with braces and ropes. The permanent side supports will not be added until after the bridge is in place. The 80' trusses are solid and stable while they are supported upright, but flex like a wet noodle when moved unsupported. An additional issue that was not anticipated, is that the uprights of the bridge extend about 6" below the lower support beam. This means that the truss will not be able to slide along the ground, but will have to be supported so the uprights do not dig into the ground, then moved along on roller logs until the truss is far enough forward along the sky line to be lifted completely off the ground. A final check is made of the spar poles, guy lines checked and tightened, and we're ready to lift the bridge. This is the most complex part of the construction, and the most dangerous. Once the winch is tightened and bearing the weight of part, and then all of the truss, care must be taken at each of the wire ropes. They will all be under differing stress depending on where the weight is placed at any given moment. We are all given constant safety briefings and warnings. People are stationed at each pole and guy wire, and others are positioned to brace the bridge with ropes to prevent lateral movement as the bridge moves forward. ...and we're off! At first the leading edge is lifted off the ground, and the rear is rolled forward inches or feet at a time. Once the front half of the first truss is "flying". With a brakeman in the rear to prevent the entire truss from flying down the line out of control, the rear is also lifted up on the skyline and the entire truss is airborne. A crew on the far side pulls, the brakeman releases slowly, and the truss inches it's way to the other side of the creek.
As the truss progressed down into the creek, those 6' lower extensions of the uprights became an issue again, and additional bracing, log rolling, and a little manual jacking and lifting was needed to complete the journey over the creek. But the pulling contined, and the creek was soon crossed, and both ends of the truss steered to their abutments. The first truss was positioned, bolted, and braced into position.
Now the process just has to be repeated for the second truss. Before starting the second movement the crew practiced on the winches and ropes by moving the wooden footing planks cross the creek on the skyline. Unfortunately, the great weather we have had so far for construction failed us at this stage. Just as the second truss was attached to the skyline and began it's ariel journey a storm was approaching. Severe weather was reported west of us. High winds and tornadoes were possible. Debris and small branches were already falling from the trees above us, and the Forest Service declared the worksite was to be cleared. We secured the half moved truss as tight as possible, cleared up the worksite to remove or secure and potentail flying objects, and returned to camp. And that was where my first F-Troop project had to end. I was supposed to leave the next day anyway, but with the threat of severe weather, the sleepless night that would ensue trying to sleep in a windblown tent, and especially the idea of having to pack up a wet tent in the morning, I decided to pack up and head for home tonight instead. I would have loved to stay another day, especially if it meant seeing the bridge completed, but I have a hiking trip planned starting early Saturday morning. I doubt at this stage that I would see the bridge completed before Friday afternoon, which would be the very latest I could leave to do the 400 mile drive down to the start point, and get my laundry done too.
But that's OK. I now have an excuse to return soon to this trail section to hike it and cross the newly completed bridge myself. I won't have the experience or the pictures of the final stages of completion, but I know which bolts I put in myself, and I'll be able to come visit them and still feel the accomplishment of being a small part of the construction.
View more photos in my Picasa album
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