I got to visit my new nephew Luke, and spend time with my family.
Flew home New Year's Eve so I could still celebrate here too, but didn't manage a wink of sleep on the plane, fell asleep about 10 minutes after dinner when I got home, apparently was impossible to wake, and therefore missed out on the festivities anyway! There is always next year.
more to follow.
Friday, December 31, 2004
Thursday, December 2, 2004
Jamaica Thanksgiving
We won a free trip to Firefly in their monthly drawing. It's not a gimmick, we can actually take a free stay up to the value of our previous stay last Christmas. The only limitation is that we have to take it outside the peak season, so that means not at Christmas. However, Thanksgiving is out of peak season, so that worked well enough for us. At such late notice it wasn't going to be easy to get flights arranged for the traditional Holiday weekend, so we travelled Tuesday before Thanksgiving to Monday after, and had no difficulties getting flights.
I can't tell you how many people reminded me to take my Green Card with me this time, so there was absolutely no doubt it travelled with me!
We had a great relaxing time. The only trips out we took were a couple of days out at Hedonism II, including on Thanksgiving day. I guess it was just another day in Paradise for the Hedo management. The meals weren't special holiday fare or anything, but were still the great food and service we have come to expect. Actually I'm glad it wasn't a "special" event there, we would probably have had to pay extra if it was. The only thing that was out of the ordinary routine was the "annual spanksgiving parade" from the nude beach out to the surrounding non nudist resorts. I guess the neighbors tolerate this once a year outpouring of exuberance in the form of scantily but seasonally dressed up merry makers.
See more photos
Friday, November 5, 2004
Saturday, September 11, 2004
Return to the Grand Canyon
So call me crazy, but flying out at Whitmore Wash on the first canyon trip just left me feeling “unfinished”. Solution: Do the last 100 miles, just to say you did it? I didn’t want to just fly all the way back to Vegas just to do the 3 day trip and see the last one hundred miles alone. What I really wanted was to do the whole thing over again, and go all the way to the end this time. I would love to do the Canyon for longer, but was still a little cautious about those oar boats, and just didn’t have the vacation time left for a 2 week trip this year, but I really, really want to finish the Canyon.
So having returned home I immediately started thinking about a return trip. By the 3rd week of June I had identified a late summer trip that would fit in my schedule. Lucky for me, when I called Arizona River Runners a family of four had just changed their trip plans and there were now 4 available spaces on the September 4th eight day, full length, motor trip. Unfortunately I was still unable to persuade Mark to join me, and no-one else was willing or able to get away for a week of hot days, freezing water, and sleeping on a mat out in the middle of nowhere. Undaunted, I reserved a single one of those last four spaces, and airline tickets to get me to Vegas and back. ARR once again would provide the transport from Vegas to river and back again.
September finally arrived. Ignoring Hurricane Frances’ impending schedule right over the top of Tampa, I again took an early flight to Las Vegas. Again catching a glimpse of Canyon as we flew over Arizona, this time no road map to establish our exact position (how did I forget that?) and light cloud cover meant that though I saw the Canyon, I didn’t actually see the river. The eternal “will it be green, and not muddy?” question would have to wait for riverside tomorrow to be answered. I did see what I again assumed to be the Little Colorado River valley, which looked brown from 36,000’, but who can be sure from that height? I was ambivalent as to the color of the river, as even really muddy silty brown would interest me this time and provide an interesting contrast to the perfect clear green of my last trip. I wasn’t really looking forward to bathing in muddy water though. We were probably flying on a slightly different flight line than the previous trip as I couldn’t see most of what I remember from the last trip, and passengers on the left of the plane commented on seeing Hoover Dam through the clouds. No pictures of Lake Mead from the plane this trip. My camera was in the overhead compartment, and my window rather dirty anyway. I decided to wait for the pictures from the ground at the end of the trip.
Arriving in Vegas, I was quickly deposited by taxi once again at the Hawthorne Suites, where we were to be met early the next day. Again, as on the last trip there was a very early room available. Being so early, and having partaken of a Cinnabon roll for breakfast I didn’t feel the need to do the Strip to eat this time. I took a nice long nap and shower, then called friend TJ, who recently moved to Vegas, to pick me up and tote me around for the afternoon, culminating in an early Prime Rib dinner. Thanks TJ! After dinner I was re-deposited at the Hawthorne to repack my bags in river mode and get my early night. Early next morning, a final hot shower, and I was down in the lobby sampling the complimentary doughnuts, fruit, juice, and coffee. The other 26 travelers were also congregating and we were met by an ARR representative. Shortly afterwards the bus arrived, and we set out for Lees Ferry.
Our route took us through Virgin Gorge, and on to Hurricane, UT where we stopped for a bathroom break and one last call home. I found it rather ironic calling from Hurricane to see what the hurricane was up to! I was told that Frances had weakened slightly, but still headed for Florida, and not to worry. I also mentioned at this time my slightly scratchy, sore throat, which at the time I assumed to be a wet Florida air versus dry Vegas air transition (more on that later!). Continuing on through the streets of Hurricane we appeared to become an impromptu part of the Labor Day weekend parade. People were lined up in folding chairs along the parade route. Fortunately we were not a little later and stuck in the middle of the parade!
The drive was interesting. The stop at Hurricane had seemed rather cool to me, and the sky clear and blue (unlike the cloudy, windy and bumpy day I had had for the plane ride last trip). The scenery of the Kaibab plateau is basically very flat (right), but eventually route 89A rises over a ridge and drops over the edge of the canyon to parallel the Vermillion cliffs with it’s spectacular layered rock walls appear.
Next stop, Marble Canyon for fishing licenses, restock of beer, etc. Then the bus continued down to Lees Ferry where we disembarked and were met by our crew. Josh, an experienced Colorado boatman, but leading his first trip, Joe driving the second boat and usually a trip leader, Elkanah, another experienced driver, but serving as swamper on this trip, and Chris, Josh’s friend taking his first trip in the swamper’s seat.
The boat ramp was very busy, with several commercial trips and a private trip readying their rafts. The numbered aqua blue dry bags were laid out awaiting us, and soon the crew was busy instructing everyone on transferal of our gear into river bags. I chose bag number A27 this trip and began unpacking and repacking. Maybe it was the larger group, or because I already knew what needed to be done, or maybe it was due to so much other activity going on at the same time but this process seemed a little more chaotic this trip than it had been at the Marble Canyon Lodge house on the last trip. Eventually everyone got the hang of it though and our dry bags were packed and stowed aboard the rafts.
Josh gave the initial correct fitting of life jackets and boat safety orientation and we all loaded onto the boats. I jumped on Josh’s boat to start the trip, though I intended to switch between the boats as I had on the previous trip. The clear blue sky was turning cloudy black while we loaded and we had hardly even pushed off from the shore when the first drops of rain began to fall. Just for the record that is the second “rare” canyon rain (left) that I have experienced within a mile of Lees Ferry!
I was fairly surprised to see the river green, though was later told that it had been fairly red and muddy up until the past several days. The flows from Glen Canyon dam had been fluctuating between 10 to 20 thousand cubic feet per second for most of the summer, but had dropped to around half that amount since September 1st. We would have only 5 to 10 cfs for the duration of the trip.
Very soon after passing through Paria riffle we stopped on a sandbar beach for lunch and more river orientation. As Josh oriented us the rest of the crew prepared the “make-it-yourself” sandwich table. The weather was deteriorating as we were oriented. Lighting flashed behind Josh and the wind whipped sand around. It was interesting to me to see some of the passengers cautious about sitting on the sand. I can’t even imagine that anyone might think they would get through this trip without getting sandy! After lunch we loaded back onto the rafts to continue. Soon passing under the twin Navajo bridges(left) and 10 Mile Rock (below) which I had only seen in a hailstorm before!
We quickly sank into the rising Kaibab, Tapeats, and Coconino sandstone layers and started into our first rapids (below – Joe’s boat running rapid).
We started through the Roaring Twenties rapids, and stopped for our first camp at river left just below Indian Dick rapid at mile 23. I had already decided to spend as many nights as possible sleeping out without a tent. Though as an ARR Canyon veteran Josh had me help with the tent setup demonstration. So I erected the first tent, which was then given away to the first taker. That only seemed fair as MaryBeth and I had actually been the beneficiaries of the demo tent on the first night of the last trip. Concerned that the wind may pick up as it had on the first night last trip I quickly found myself a sheltered spot behind a large rock and rolled out my sleeping mat, leaving the remaining bedding packed until ready for use, to eliminate the chance of it becoming a resting place for some other creature than me!
Dinner was delicious, if predictable. It seems that the menu provided for the trips is very standardized and does not change much between the 7 and 8 day trips. Tonight was grilled salmon, rice and salad, with cheesecake to follow. Surprise! I was able to guess both dinner and dessert correctly for the first couple of days before the crew surprised me with meal we had not had on the first trip. While the crew cooked dinner us passengers started to get to know each other more.
I had a fairly restful night, except for a very irritating dry and slightly sore throat which woke me a couple of times. The moon came up late into the night and was very bright, even though not full. In the morning the coffee was delicious, strong, gritty, and very quick to disappear. The biggest difference on this trip so far seems to be the prevalence of strong coffee drinkers. I remember throwing away coffee most mornings on the last trip, but the coffee on this trip needed to be refreshed with additional hot water most mornings. After breakfast of eggs and hash brown potatoes, we reversed the unpacking process and loaded back onto the boats. I switched to Joe’s boat this morning. Starting out in calm water Josh read to us (below left) from the logs of Powell’s trip about the journey into the unknown. He also told us about Georgie White-Clark and her river running trips. The first rapid we run this morning is Mile 24, now known as Georgie’s Rapid.
Mid morning we stopped at South Canyon for our first hike. The lower part of the hike was up about 75 feet to a ledge with a large rock decorated with petroglyphs. It was fairly easily accessible and everyone joined in. There was a nice view of the river upstream from the ledge. The second part went much higher up into the rock for a canyon overlook. It was already hot, and my throat was getting sorer by the minute, so I skipped the top half of the hike. Along with several others of the group I worked my way down to the boats and took a short walk up South Canyon and when it turned too muddy to continue turned back to the river and found a nice cool rock to sit on. It was originally in the shade, but the sun soon found me.
Soon after the sun hit my rock the group began trickling down from the hike. We loaded back on the boats. Just before Vasey’s Paradise we first heard, then saw two rams practicing their territory claiming skills complete with posturing and skull butting. We hovered for several minutes during which time they worked though their sniffing, posing and butting routine 3 times. Unfortunately I never quite managed to click the camera just right, and while I got many pictures, I never quite got them butting!
Continuing on to Redwall Cavern we passed Kissing Rock. At Mile 33 we stopped for lunch in Redwall Cavern. There was already an oar trip group in Redwall the group was from a symphony orchestra, but I can’t remember where. Some of them played while we ate. Unfortunately I was not much in the mood to enjoy the “make-it- yourself” sandwich lunch or the music much. My throat was now burning and sore, head pounding, ears filling up with fluid, and temperature rising. I began to feel like I was getting sick. Before we left Redwall Cavern we were told that some of the Orchestra group had continued downstream to a smaller beach to play and we would likely hear them as we passed. The boatmen turned off the engines and we floated with the current downriver while the quartet played. It was a uniquely relaxing experience to drift by listening to the music. The piece finished just as we drifted out of earshot and we all applauded before the boats were restarted and we continued on, passing several small fresh water springs with their clusters of ferns, then the Bridge of Sighs at mile 35.
As we passed mile 40 Joe explained the test drills and the effect that the proposed Marble Canyon Dam would have had on the Canyon. Next we passed the Triple Alcoves with stalactites, stalagmites, and fern crowned springs. By this time the canyon had turned mainly shaded, and the repeated dousings of frigid water were having an extreme chilling effect. My temperature was high, and as I started to count off miles until we would stop for the night my fever continued to rise. As we entered Nankoweap Canyon a female mule deer and 2 fawns were spotted on river right. Again we drifted and hovered for several minutes to get pictures, though in my delirious state I could hardly even see through the viewfinder, let alone get all 3 animals in the same photo!
Mile 52: As we cleared the first rapid and rounded the corner we not only saw the Anasazi Granaries high in the sheer rock wall, but it was also clear that both the upper and middle Nankoweap campgrounds were empty. Fortunately for me, we had our beach for the night! I was never so glad to get off the river. I skipped out on the duffle line duty tonight in favor of a very quick change into my dry fleece sweater and a hot rock to sit on. As soon as I recovered my bag I quickly set up my bed with the luxury of an extra bed mat and collapsed exhausted onto it. Our wonderful boat guides, seeing the extent of my sickness at this point provided hot water for herb teas and vitamins C and E from their own personal supplies in an attempt to hasten my recovery. They are wonderful guys! Dinner was barbeque chicken, stovetop and beans and carrots with hot dutch oven brownies and fresh milk. It was great, (especially the brownies) though I couldn’t taste much, and the actual swallowing was a challenge. The warm dry clothes, hot tea, food, and fever reducing aspirin had the net result of completing my exhaustion and I literally dropped into bed and immediately to sleep only to awake every couple of hours in a returned pained, sore, and unable to swallow state, repeat the drink and aspirin cycle and fall immediately back to sleep. Sometime shortly before dawn the fever broke in a thoroughly drenching sweat. I switched to a dry sleeping bag and drifted in and out of sleep for a short while until the breakfast coffee burners got me up and out of bed.
Maybe it was some kind of post fever delirium, or maybe it was that the guides had been so willing and sweet and helpful with the hot teas, vitamins, etc., but I should also have remembered the true nature of those sweet caring guides. The recommendation for soothing my sore throat this morning was to use Tabasco sauce on my Blueberry pancake and sausage breakfast. Unbelievably, I was foolish enough to forget the rule never to trust a river guide if his lips are moving! The Tabasco did indeed stop me feeling the pain from my sore throat, but only at the cost of me losing ALL feeling in my mouth, lips and tongue for several hours after consuming the not so delicious concoction. After breakfast, with any deep breathing still extremely uncomfortable I set out with the group to hike up to the Anasazi Granaries. I was not sure I would make it, but was determined to give it my very best try. Missing out on the Nankoweap hike due to lack of a campground had been a big disappointment to me on the first trip. I was still hopeful to make it this time. The lack of direct sunlight on the steep uphill climb was my best chance right now. I was determined to try to keep a pace to ascend to the Granaries before the sun turned the steep hike into a hot steep hike. I started off near the front of the group, but with very short breath, and frequent need to stop I was soon falling behind. As we climbed higher some of the group decided not to continue to the top. About halfway up I found it necessary to pace myself 50 steps, then rest, then another 50 steps and rest. The view downriver at each rest just begged to be photographed, which allowed me my "breather breaks".
About 50’ below the Granaries the sun finally caught me, but by that stage I was too close to give up. I think I stopped at each 20 paces not 50, but I was determined to make it to the top. I finally made it to the top!
After a short rest I was ready to start back down. It was much easier on the breathing going down, but harder on the knees. The crew gave me a good start, but soon caught and passed me as they flip-flopped their way down! They are like mountain goats. I was the last to return, in the company of Joe. Back at the beach many were dousing themselves in the cold water to cool off. Memories of fever and chills from last night kept me from thoroughly partaking, but I did cool off my hot tired feet. Soon we were back in the boats and headed downstream once again. As we neared the confluence with the Little Colorado River the colorful Bright Angel Shale layers became even more impressive with their layers of greens, brown and purples. However, at Mile 61, the Little Colorado was a thick muddy brown flow. Definitely the antithesis of the sparkling clear blue river I remembered. I was disappointed for my fellow travelers that they would not get to experience and enjoy this little piece of Paradise. A couple of passengers who disembarked sank up to their knees in the mud. I stayed firmly on the boat! Just past the confluence we passed the sacred Hopi salt deposits along the left cliff. Hopi Indians made long pilgrimages from their villages to collect this salt. On river right we saw the gleaming of metal high on Chaur Butte where wreckage still remains of 2 jet aircraft that crashed in midair over Grand Canyon in 1955.
The next stop was for lunch on river right at Carbon Creek (Mile 64). The Mexican Train Wreck salad on pitas was especially good as I was actually beginning to taste food again! The vista from the beach was the Grand Canyon opening up, with the Desert View Watch Tower in the distance on the South Rim. While lunch was being prepared I took a quick walk up the beach to the mouth of the wash and found some interesting river fluted rocks. The Canyon is much more open here with impressive long distance views that you do not get in the gorges. There is much more variation in the rocks at this point in the Canyon. They rock types are referred to as the "Grand Canyon Supergroup" that includes more rocks than I care to name that are a mixture of sandstones, lava, and basalts. Various faults and earth movements have tilted these formations and caused offsets between one side of the Canyon and the other.
At Tanner Canyon (mile 68) we stopped at river right for an early camp and the chance to do an archeology hike with Joe. Much as I would have loved to do this hike I was already “rock scrambled” out for the day after Nankoweap, and didn’t relish the thought of straining my still tender sore throat with a hot dry hike. I decided to sit this one out and find myself a cozy spot on the beach to relax for a while and take a bath while the sun was still strong and warm. The split was about half and half between those that hiked and those that opted for hanging out. While the hiking group was away Elk entertained us with his guitar. It was a very pleasant way to spend the afternoon and allowed me some much needed warm dry recovery time. Dinner tonight was a surprise for me. Spaghetti, salad, garlic bread and strawberry shortcake, which we did not have on the first trip. It was delicious. Anyone who knows me will not be surprised at how much of it traveled the remainder of the trip embedded in my pj’s t-shirt! After dinner Joe treated us all to a tour of the stars. I was particularly enjoyed seeing the yellow/red blinking Antares in the Scorpion system. Given that this area is known as Furnace Flats is was quite a strange to experience such a cool damp night here. When I awoke there appeared to have been a water seeping through the sand below my bed and my pillow and sleeping bag were both cold and damp.
Breakfast this morning was french toast and bacon, and we were soon on the river. Today was to be a long river day after such a short day yesterday. The wide open Canyon continued for around 8 miles down to Hance Rapid.
At Hance Rapid the Canyon changes once again and we entered the Upper Granite Gorge. The wide vistas are replaced by the vertical limestone cliffs. The river was running very low so the guides pulled over on river right to scout the rapid. The remainder of the group took this as an opportunity to do a little “relieving” and those that did not want to get wet in the rapid donned rain gear. The ride through Hance was relatively smooth considering how many rocks were showing through the shallow churning water, but Josh did ding his propeller on the way down and had to change it out at the bottom.
We stopped at the Phantom Ranch Beach a little before lunchtime. The chief purpose of the stop was to restock with fresh drinking water, but as it was lunchtime we walked up to Phantom Ranch to sit in air conditioned air for a few minutes, and mail postcards which would be carried by mule to the South Rim. I didn’t think it was worth mailing a card to Mark, doubting that it would get home before I did, so I mailed one to myself instead. Of course, the postcard proved me wrong and did make it home before me. Returning from Phantom Ranch I made it off the trail just in time to not get run over by the mules. We found the sandwich table set up on the beach, ate lunch, and continued downstream. Shortly after Phantom Ranch is the second of the two footbridges, Bright Angel Bridge, then a brief view of the South Rim observation point where I had got my first view of the Colorado River that had started this obsession with the Grand Canyon.
We had a wonderful afternoon of hot sunshine, cold rapids, and sheep. The best dousing of the afternoon had to be at Horn Creek rapid where the wave totally engulfed the raft so that from the front boat all that could be seen was the two boatmen, Joe and Elk, in the back surrounded by frothy water. Joe’s engine stalled in Horn Creek and we had a tense but quiet few moments while it recovered and he managed to restart it. Fortunately we didn’t hit anything or get stuck on top of anything while drifting. Then we tackled jewels rapids, and they were all fun, though Joe was obviously experiencing some engine issues, and finally pulled over just below Tuna rapid to change out the engine with the spare. It was very quickly done, and we all believe that Joe happened to provide Tootsie Roll suckers to us at that particular moment just to shut us all up so we would not ask questions and he could just get on with it. No watch to time him on, but it seemed like only 5 – 10 minutes to change out. Though obviously the downstream boat had been concerned about us missing for even such a short time when we caught up to them. The last highlight of the day for me was Serpentine Rapid, where I persuaded Joe to let me ride the duffle pile face forward into the rapid. It’s an awesome ride to see the waves coming up at you from that position. It also persuaded me that I was feeling much better that I was even interested in doing it! My sore throat was receding to a scratchy throat and body temperature was acting normally.
Camp tonight is at mile 107 on river right in an area of basalt rocks that retained heat. It was very easy to dry out. I even found a nice rocky area with a rock ledge that I could easily sit on to bathe and do laundry. I had a hard time debating over my choice of sleeping place tonight. Close to the river’s edge, but about 15’ above river level was an unusual circular rock depression. Almost like an 8’ circular cave without a roof. I was very tempted to use this as my private bedroom, except for the hard and rather un-level floor, and the complexity of dragging all my gear in and out again. Then there was the issue of having to rock scramble to get in and out as needed for bathroom trips in the night. Ultimately I decided that my first choice of level but packed sand close to the kitchen was a better choice. Dinner tonight was Pork Chops, apple sauce, beans and squash, with cobbler for dessert (for those who got to it quick enough!) It was a pleasant night, and warmer than the previous one, but the ants and mosquitoes took their fair share of human flesh at this location. One passenger was stung by a scorpion when he accidentally transferred it into his tent on a damp piece of clothing that had been left out on a rock. Wednesday breakfast was fill your own omelets. Delicious. My throat was a lot better today. Not sore at all, but I didn’t really have a proper voice going. It drifted in and out all day. I guess I sounded much worse that I felt. The worst part for me not was I was not able to scream my delight at the rapids!
Back on the river, the first stop for the day was at Elves Chasm (mile 116). I had hiked up to enjoy Elves Chasm on the last trip, but had not really enjoyed the trip back due to a particularly nasty sloped rock with a huge chasm and drop in the middle of it. I knew I would not be jumping from any waterfalls anyway, so decided not to torture everyone with having to coax me back over that nasty rock. I stayed down at the lower pools and falls in Elves Chasm. When the group returned from the hike we traveled a short distance downstream to pull up at a small beach on river right at mile 117 for lunch. Again, while the lunch tables were set up for ‘make-it-yourself’ sandwiches I took another little walk around the extent of the beach and found some interesting wind and water eroded rocks.
This afternoon we continued to have engine issues with stalls in both Bedrock and Duebendorf rapids. Either they happened in very fortuitous places or Joe is the best boatman ever, because somehow we managed not to get stuck on anything while drifting in this low water! Our afternoon stop is at Deer Creek Falls. I decided not to do the steep hike to the top just on past advice that it is extremely narrow in places and not good for anyone with height issues. Rather than just go into the waterfall side canyon I attempted to climb the big chunk of rock outside the canyon entrance to see if I could get a different view of the falls. I made it almost all the way up, but was stopped by a sloping slab of sandstone, which obscured an elevated view of the falls. I could probably have ascended it, but was not sure I could safely descend again. Not wanting to have to test my squeaky voice by screaming for help if I got stuck, I turned around to return to terra firma! This little side trip caused me my worst injury of the trip when I scraped the side of my right knee against a rock. Not particularly painful, but it did result in a nice purple and green bruise with an abrasion in the middle! Of course, I eventually had to go into the canyon below the falls for the obligatory “standing in the gale force outflow from the waterfall” picture.
Our camp for tonight is river left at mile 138 just a short way down from Deer Creek. There are 2 campgrounds in close proximity and the lower camp was taken by a private group. A unique feature of this particular side canyon was the way that sound traveled around the rear wall. Small sounds made at one end of the beach were surprisingly easy to hear at the other parts of the beach. I noticed this particularly strongly when doing my nightly exploration around and camp. Even though once again slightly feverish I managed to climb above the camp onto a rock outcrop to take some pictures. While on this outcrop I could hear the water running past the beach and boats as if I were sitting right next to it. Dinner was Burritos, beans and rice with fruit salad. A large part of the evening was spent making massive amounts of noise trying to out shout the downstream camp. Their group had bongo drums, we had Elk’s guitar and a few loud voices (not my intermittent squeak). I think we may have won, but that is subjective! They definitely lasted later into the night than we did!
Thursday Morning breakfast was breakfast cereal, fruit and muffins. This morning we also made our sandwiches in advance to give us more options for a lunch hike. My voice was still wavering in and out, but the fever that had tried to recur last night was thankfully not active again this morning. We were very fortunate this morning to be able to stop at Matkatamiba Canyon (mile 148). This was another hike I would have loved to have done on the last trip, but again, limited parking had prevented us stopping. I consider myself very lucky to have been able to stop at both Nankoweap and Matkat on the same trip. The hike up Matkat is short, and wet for some of the way then with an option for low, wet and slippery, or high and dry. I opted for high and dry going upstream. It had one place where I was rather short leg challenged in being able to get up onto the next ledge, but eventually managed some sidestepping to get me up on the ledge. A short way up the slot canyon widens out. The small but permanent stream pools then flows down to the next pool. The ‘in’ thing to do here is to create “butt dams” to block the water temporarily in a pool, then release the dam quickly to allow the water to rush downstream. It’s even more fun if you build a stack of rocks downstream of the dam to be wash away by the released flood. After the butt dam experience I continued upstream to enjoy the large pools and falls of the canyon. All too soon it was time to leave. The decision was taken to hike back on the same high and dry route we had used to hike in. For some reason it seemed a little harder making our way downstream than up, and I became especially aware of the more prickly canyon inhabitants! As we all struggled along, hanging onto rocks, and carefully watching for the next foothold, we found ourselves face to face with a Bighorn sheep on the other side of the narrow slot. We named him the “Showoff Sheep” for his total nonchalance leaping steadyfooted from rock to precarious rock without even seeming to look. He reminded us a lot of our guides except he didn’t have flip-flops! Soon we were all splashing back down into the bottom of the slot for the final wet rock scramble back to the boats.
We continued downstream, and Josh made the decision to eat lunch on the rafts to give us a little extra time. As we ran the next 30 miles we passed through some light rain just downstream of Havasu canyon and a grey sky with lightning which looked like it was prepared to give us a nasty storm, but then didn’t. We reached Lava Falls about mid afternoon and Joe prepared us, and then himself to run Lava!
Below Lava is a clear spring (above right) on river left. We pulled over on river right below Lower Lava for a bathroom and stretch break. Many of us scrambled up the beach expecting to see a Western River Expeditions raft follow us through. We waited several minutes, but the never materialized, so all we got were some scenic photos of Lava Falls with no boats in it. Shortly after Lava we passed Chock stone Camp on river left where we had spent the last night of my previous trip, then the Whitmore helicopter pad where I departed the river. Everything below this point is new Canyon to me now. We stopped for the night at mile 188, river right, at Whitmore Wash. Just as the boats parked a storm started building in the side Canyon. Everybody except me started scrambling to erect tents. I was still hoping that I would be able to sleep without a tent, and had picked a small bed site that didn’t seem big enough to erect a tent. I wandered around looking for another suitable site big enough for a tent, but didn’t find anything I liked. By the time I returned to my original spot, with tent in hand and ready to erect it, the rain started in earnest, complete with lightening and thunder. Lucky for me, Becky in the site behind me had completed her tent setup and invited me to join her. The rain didn’t last too long, and was not heavy by Florida standards, but there was enough wet to persuade me that I was going to have to set the tent up for tonight! The crew set up a canopy to cook under and prepared a delicious Lasagna, garlic bread and salad, with carrot cake dessert which we ate in the dark. Right at the end of dinner it started to rain again. Everyone scrambled for their tents. The rain was light and lasted only a few minutes, but by then the party had broken up and everyone stayed in bed. Even the crew set up their tents on the boat for the night, so I decided I was just going to have to suffer the night in my tent! As it turned out, there was no more rain that night. This was probably my most uncomfortable night as I was not used to the rustling of the tent. I didn’t close the tent door to relieve the stuffiness, but unfortunately the restroom wash and key line had been placed right next to my tent, so I awoke in the morning to the “early groover line” outside my door! Maybe it was the rain, but we were all very slow getting started this morning. Breakfast was fluffy pancakes, sausage, and strawberries. I ate mine without Tabasco this time around. It definitely tasted much better with syrup! I was feeling much better this morning, despite not having slept well. My voice was much more consistent, though still wavering in and out occasionally.
Friday Morning - Not surprisingly, this new (to me) lower portion of the Canyon looks very much like, and just as beautiful as the upper portions. The biggest difference is more volcanic features. This morning we passed a hematite mine shaped like a lion. Around mile 212 we stopped for a short hike over some eroded rock that looked like swiss cheese. Josh and Joe drove the boats downstream a short distance to a beach on rivr left, while Elk led us on a short hike over and into (for some) the holey rocks and past Pumpkin Springs, a travertine bowl filled with green mineral laden water (below), then down to meet up with the boats and the tuna salad lunch awaiting us on the beach below.
Back on the boats and continuing downstream, Joe and Elk got out the kite. The plan was to try to fly it out all the way to the end of the string spool. With a little help initially Elk succeeded in getting it airborne,then slowly fed out the entire spool, an unmeasured distance, but probably a couple hundred feet. The kite not only went all the way up, but stayed flying down past Diamond Peak. Elk finally had to reel in the kite to get it under the water gauge station cable crossing the river.
At mile 229 we stopped for a short hike/climb up Travertine Canyon to the waterfall above where we played briefly in the waterfall. The climb up and back down to the falls is assisted by a series of ropes and rope ladders which makes the climb possible even for those of us with short legs and not much climbing ability. The ladders were slippery enough to appreciate being back on solid ground though! Our stop for tonight, the final night was on river left at Bridge Canyon (mile 235). The camping was probably the closest together of the whole trip as we were all basically spread out along a fairly narrow ledge. I was determined to sleep out in the open again tonight after the restless night last night, and that made it easier to squeeze my bed in between a couple of tents. For all my convincing myself that I didn’t care whether the Colorado would be clear green or muddy brown, my only worry had been the thought of bathing in muddy water. I had managed so far, but the water had not been really muddy up until now. Tonight I just could not bring myself to bath in the “too thick to drink, too thin to plow” water. I settled for a wet wipe bath instead! We had a comfortable pre dinner crowd, augmented by a bright orange sunset lit cloud Dinner tonight was steak, perfect mashed potatoes, salad, and dutch oven chocolate/vanilla swirl cake. It was eaten in the dark, and the crew all said a few words about the trip, and or read an inspirational verse. We all retired to bed not really wanting to face the reality that the trip was almost over. We were so closely packed that I kept my flashlight burning by my bedside all night to prevent being stepped on!
Our final morning. We woke to the sound of a hornets nest! That’s what it sounded like at least, but it turned out to be bees, not interested in humans, but seeking the pollen laden plants along our beach. It was a beautiful morning. Such a shame to have to leave the canyon.
After breakfast of French toast and bacon, and loading the boats with our own freshly repacked bags the whole group posed for the group photo.
Next was the guides turn, with Joe providing the moon shot before obliging for a formal photo with his butt in his pants! We loaded onto the rafts for the final time. The inner two pontoons had been removed and the rafts tied together for the final few miles downstream. We had a little excitement when a small mouse stowaway was discovered aboard, but after eliciting a few screams it soon slipped into the gap between the two boats and finally fell into the water. Joe read aloud to us for the last time, though I confess I was rather zoned out at the time, and, sitting in the back, could not hear what he was saying anyway over the motor noise of the 2 rafts.
After several miles we were met by the jet boat which would take us the final 30 some miles down to Lake Mead and South Cove. The bags were transferred, along with lunch, sodas, and unfortunately us. Final hugs were exchanged and we were whisked away by our new Captain Joe. The rafts were pulling into the first available beach to continue disassembling the pontoons as we left. The scenery goes by much faster at 50 mph, and we were not able to stand at all. The Canyon is still impressive though as it reaches the Grand Wash Cliffs and dissolves into Lake Mead. At Iceberg Canyon the water level is so low that we had to brace ourselves against the possibility of clipping a sand bar. Captain Joe knew his stuff though and we passed through without incident. After iceberg canyon we pass into the deeper water of Lake Mead. The cold Colorado water sinks rapidly below the warmer and clear blue lake water.
It was a short trip on the Lake to South Cove. The jet boat tied up but unfortunately there was no bus there to meet us. There had been some miscommunication and the bus driver believed he was supposed to meet us at 1:30. It was a little after noon when we landed, so we all sat on the lakeside and ate our sandwiches we had packed earlier. Lucky for us there was a good cloud cover which blocked any direct sunlight. It would have been much hotter in the sun. As it was several of us spent some time dunking and floating off the boat ramps. It was strange though, the water was too warm! Eventually the bus arrived and after a short restroom break at the boat ramp parking lot we were on our way back to Vegas. We stopped briefly a couple of times on the way. At Peach Springs, AZ for cold sodas, beer and ice cream, and again at Hoover Dam for photos. The final picture below was our last look at Lake Mead, and the now blue Colorado waters.
The hour plus wait for the bus affected me more than anyone else as I had the first flight out from Vegas at 5pm. We arrived at the airport at 4:20pm and I raced in. The SouthWest check in lines were about a quarter mile long! I love kiosk check in. One swipe of my frequent flyer card and I had my boarding pass in less than a minute! On a roll I ran to the escalator, and at the top to security. Being 9/11, of course security was a little tighter than usual and those five carefully packed and waterproofed little packs of 4 AA rechargeable batteries were obviously going to cause a delay! Having to have someone poke through my REALLY smelly damp muddy laundry was even worse! But smiling through it and allowing the security agent full access to anything and everything in the bag made the ordeal pass fairly quickly. I made the flight with 3 ½ minutes to spare! Lucky for me it was not totally full. I even managed to get an exit row seat (so only one person had to suffer my unwashed, diesel dipped, run for the plane in fleece and 90 degrees, sweaty odor!)
So am I done with the Canyon now that I have done the whole thing? Not even close! Now I KNOW I want to do a longer trip, probably an oar trip. Shame I can’t get on a month long oar trip! Not this year though. Maybe next year. Maybe I will even have to wait to 2006.
But I’ll be back!
View more photos in my Picasa album
So having returned home I immediately started thinking about a return trip. By the 3rd week of June I had identified a late summer trip that would fit in my schedule. Lucky for me, when I called Arizona River Runners a family of four had just changed their trip plans and there were now 4 available spaces on the September 4th eight day, full length, motor trip. Unfortunately I was still unable to persuade Mark to join me, and no-one else was willing or able to get away for a week of hot days, freezing water, and sleeping on a mat out in the middle of nowhere. Undaunted, I reserved a single one of those last four spaces, and airline tickets to get me to Vegas and back. ARR once again would provide the transport from Vegas to river and back again.
September finally arrived. Ignoring Hurricane Frances’ impending schedule right over the top of Tampa, I again took an early flight to Las Vegas. Again catching a glimpse of Canyon as we flew over Arizona, this time no road map to establish our exact position (how did I forget that?) and light cloud cover meant that though I saw the Canyon, I didn’t actually see the river. The eternal “will it be green, and not muddy?” question would have to wait for riverside tomorrow to be answered. I did see what I again assumed to be the Little Colorado River valley, which looked brown from 36,000’, but who can be sure from that height? I was ambivalent as to the color of the river, as even really muddy silty brown would interest me this time and provide an interesting contrast to the perfect clear green of my last trip. I wasn’t really looking forward to bathing in muddy water though. We were probably flying on a slightly different flight line than the previous trip as I couldn’t see most of what I remember from the last trip, and passengers on the left of the plane commented on seeing Hoover Dam through the clouds. No pictures of Lake Mead from the plane this trip. My camera was in the overhead compartment, and my window rather dirty anyway. I decided to wait for the pictures from the ground at the end of the trip.
Arriving in Vegas, I was quickly deposited by taxi once again at the Hawthorne Suites, where we were to be met early the next day. Again, as on the last trip there was a very early room available. Being so early, and having partaken of a Cinnabon roll for breakfast I didn’t feel the need to do the Strip to eat this time. I took a nice long nap and shower, then called friend TJ, who recently moved to Vegas, to pick me up and tote me around for the afternoon, culminating in an early Prime Rib dinner. Thanks TJ! After dinner I was re-deposited at the Hawthorne to repack my bags in river mode and get my early night. Early next morning, a final hot shower, and I was down in the lobby sampling the complimentary doughnuts, fruit, juice, and coffee. The other 26 travelers were also congregating and we were met by an ARR representative. Shortly afterwards the bus arrived, and we set out for Lees Ferry.
Our route took us through Virgin Gorge, and on to Hurricane, UT where we stopped for a bathroom break and one last call home. I found it rather ironic calling from Hurricane to see what the hurricane was up to! I was told that Frances had weakened slightly, but still headed for Florida, and not to worry. I also mentioned at this time my slightly scratchy, sore throat, which at the time I assumed to be a wet Florida air versus dry Vegas air transition (more on that later!). Continuing on through the streets of Hurricane we appeared to become an impromptu part of the Labor Day weekend parade. People were lined up in folding chairs along the parade route. Fortunately we were not a little later and stuck in the middle of the parade!
The drive was interesting. The stop at Hurricane had seemed rather cool to me, and the sky clear and blue (unlike the cloudy, windy and bumpy day I had had for the plane ride last trip). The scenery of the Kaibab plateau is basically very flat (right), but eventually route 89A rises over a ridge and drops over the edge of the canyon to parallel the Vermillion cliffs with it’s spectacular layered rock walls appear.
Next stop, Marble Canyon for fishing licenses, restock of beer, etc. Then the bus continued down to Lees Ferry where we disembarked and were met by our crew. Josh, an experienced Colorado boatman, but leading his first trip, Joe driving the second boat and usually a trip leader, Elkanah, another experienced driver, but serving as swamper on this trip, and Chris, Josh’s friend taking his first trip in the swamper’s seat.
The boat ramp was very busy, with several commercial trips and a private trip readying their rafts. The numbered aqua blue dry bags were laid out awaiting us, and soon the crew was busy instructing everyone on transferal of our gear into river bags. I chose bag number A27 this trip and began unpacking and repacking. Maybe it was the larger group, or because I already knew what needed to be done, or maybe it was due to so much other activity going on at the same time but this process seemed a little more chaotic this trip than it had been at the Marble Canyon Lodge house on the last trip. Eventually everyone got the hang of it though and our dry bags were packed and stowed aboard the rafts.
Josh gave the initial correct fitting of life jackets and boat safety orientation and we all loaded onto the boats. I jumped on Josh’s boat to start the trip, though I intended to switch between the boats as I had on the previous trip. The clear blue sky was turning cloudy black while we loaded and we had hardly even pushed off from the shore when the first drops of rain began to fall. Just for the record that is the second “rare” canyon rain (left) that I have experienced within a mile of Lees Ferry!
I was fairly surprised to see the river green, though was later told that it had been fairly red and muddy up until the past several days. The flows from Glen Canyon dam had been fluctuating between 10 to 20 thousand cubic feet per second for most of the summer, but had dropped to around half that amount since September 1st. We would have only 5 to 10 cfs for the duration of the trip.
Very soon after passing through Paria riffle we stopped on a sandbar beach for lunch and more river orientation. As Josh oriented us the rest of the crew prepared the “make-it-yourself” sandwich table. The weather was deteriorating as we were oriented. Lighting flashed behind Josh and the wind whipped sand around. It was interesting to me to see some of the passengers cautious about sitting on the sand. I can’t even imagine that anyone might think they would get through this trip without getting sandy! After lunch we loaded back onto the rafts to continue. Soon passing under the twin Navajo bridges(left) and 10 Mile Rock (below) which I had only seen in a hailstorm before!
We quickly sank into the rising Kaibab, Tapeats, and Coconino sandstone layers and started into our first rapids (below – Joe’s boat running rapid).
We started through the Roaring Twenties rapids, and stopped for our first camp at river left just below Indian Dick rapid at mile 23. I had already decided to spend as many nights as possible sleeping out without a tent. Though as an ARR Canyon veteran Josh had me help with the tent setup demonstration. So I erected the first tent, which was then given away to the first taker. That only seemed fair as MaryBeth and I had actually been the beneficiaries of the demo tent on the first night of the last trip. Concerned that the wind may pick up as it had on the first night last trip I quickly found myself a sheltered spot behind a large rock and rolled out my sleeping mat, leaving the remaining bedding packed until ready for use, to eliminate the chance of it becoming a resting place for some other creature than me!
Dinner was delicious, if predictable. It seems that the menu provided for the trips is very standardized and does not change much between the 7 and 8 day trips. Tonight was grilled salmon, rice and salad, with cheesecake to follow. Surprise! I was able to guess both dinner and dessert correctly for the first couple of days before the crew surprised me with meal we had not had on the first trip. While the crew cooked dinner us passengers started to get to know each other more.
I had a fairly restful night, except for a very irritating dry and slightly sore throat which woke me a couple of times. The moon came up late into the night and was very bright, even though not full. In the morning the coffee was delicious, strong, gritty, and very quick to disappear. The biggest difference on this trip so far seems to be the prevalence of strong coffee drinkers. I remember throwing away coffee most mornings on the last trip, but the coffee on this trip needed to be refreshed with additional hot water most mornings. After breakfast of eggs and hash brown potatoes, we reversed the unpacking process and loaded back onto the boats. I switched to Joe’s boat this morning. Starting out in calm water Josh read to us (below left) from the logs of Powell’s trip about the journey into the unknown. He also told us about Georgie White-Clark and her river running trips. The first rapid we run this morning is Mile 24, now known as Georgie’s Rapid.
Mid morning we stopped at South Canyon for our first hike. The lower part of the hike was up about 75 feet to a ledge with a large rock decorated with petroglyphs. It was fairly easily accessible and everyone joined in. There was a nice view of the river upstream from the ledge. The second part went much higher up into the rock for a canyon overlook. It was already hot, and my throat was getting sorer by the minute, so I skipped the top half of the hike. Along with several others of the group I worked my way down to the boats and took a short walk up South Canyon and when it turned too muddy to continue turned back to the river and found a nice cool rock to sit on. It was originally in the shade, but the sun soon found me.
Soon after the sun hit my rock the group began trickling down from the hike. We loaded back on the boats. Just before Vasey’s Paradise we first heard, then saw two rams practicing their territory claiming skills complete with posturing and skull butting. We hovered for several minutes during which time they worked though their sniffing, posing and butting routine 3 times. Unfortunately I never quite managed to click the camera just right, and while I got many pictures, I never quite got them butting!
Continuing on to Redwall Cavern we passed Kissing Rock. At Mile 33 we stopped for lunch in Redwall Cavern. There was already an oar trip group in Redwall the group was from a symphony orchestra, but I can’t remember where. Some of them played while we ate. Unfortunately I was not much in the mood to enjoy the “make-it- yourself” sandwich lunch or the music much. My throat was now burning and sore, head pounding, ears filling up with fluid, and temperature rising. I began to feel like I was getting sick. Before we left Redwall Cavern we were told that some of the Orchestra group had continued downstream to a smaller beach to play and we would likely hear them as we passed. The boatmen turned off the engines and we floated with the current downriver while the quartet played. It was a uniquely relaxing experience to drift by listening to the music. The piece finished just as we drifted out of earshot and we all applauded before the boats were restarted and we continued on, passing several small fresh water springs with their clusters of ferns, then the Bridge of Sighs at mile 35.As we passed mile 40 Joe explained the test drills and the effect that the proposed Marble Canyon Dam would have had on the Canyon. Next we passed the Triple Alcoves with stalactites, stalagmites, and fern crowned springs. By this time the canyon had turned mainly shaded, and the repeated dousings of frigid water were having an extreme chilling effect. My temperature was high, and as I started to count off miles until we would stop for the night my fever continued to rise. As we entered Nankoweap Canyon a female mule deer and 2 fawns were spotted on river right. Again we drifted and hovered for several minutes to get pictures, though in my delirious state I could hardly even see through the viewfinder, let alone get all 3 animals in the same photo!
Mile 52: As we cleared the first rapid and rounded the corner we not only saw the Anasazi Granaries high in the sheer rock wall, but it was also clear that both the upper and middle Nankoweap campgrounds were empty. Fortunately for me, we had our beach for the night! I was never so glad to get off the river. I skipped out on the duffle line duty tonight in favor of a very quick change into my dry fleece sweater and a hot rock to sit on. As soon as I recovered my bag I quickly set up my bed with the luxury of an extra bed mat and collapsed exhausted onto it. Our wonderful boat guides, seeing the extent of my sickness at this point provided hot water for herb teas and vitamins C and E from their own personal supplies in an attempt to hasten my recovery. They are wonderful guys! Dinner was barbeque chicken, stovetop and beans and carrots with hot dutch oven brownies and fresh milk. It was great, (especially the brownies) though I couldn’t taste much, and the actual swallowing was a challenge. The warm dry clothes, hot tea, food, and fever reducing aspirin had the net result of completing my exhaustion and I literally dropped into bed and immediately to sleep only to awake every couple of hours in a returned pained, sore, and unable to swallow state, repeat the drink and aspirin cycle and fall immediately back to sleep. Sometime shortly before dawn the fever broke in a thoroughly drenching sweat. I switched to a dry sleeping bag and drifted in and out of sleep for a short while until the breakfast coffee burners got me up and out of bed.
Maybe it was some kind of post fever delirium, or maybe it was that the guides had been so willing and sweet and helpful with the hot teas, vitamins, etc., but I should also have remembered the true nature of those sweet caring guides. The recommendation for soothing my sore throat this morning was to use Tabasco sauce on my Blueberry pancake and sausage breakfast. Unbelievably, I was foolish enough to forget the rule never to trust a river guide if his lips are moving! The Tabasco did indeed stop me feeling the pain from my sore throat, but only at the cost of me losing ALL feeling in my mouth, lips and tongue for several hours after consuming the not so delicious concoction. After breakfast, with any deep breathing still extremely uncomfortable I set out with the group to hike up to the Anasazi Granaries. I was not sure I would make it, but was determined to give it my very best try. Missing out on the Nankoweap hike due to lack of a campground had been a big disappointment to me on the first trip. I was still hopeful to make it this time. The lack of direct sunlight on the steep uphill climb was my best chance right now. I was determined to try to keep a pace to ascend to the Granaries before the sun turned the steep hike into a hot steep hike. I started off near the front of the group, but with very short breath, and frequent need to stop I was soon falling behind. As we climbed higher some of the group decided not to continue to the top. About halfway up I found it necessary to pace myself 50 steps, then rest, then another 50 steps and rest. The view downriver at each rest just begged to be photographed, which allowed me my "breather breaks".
About 50’ below the Granaries the sun finally caught me, but by that stage I was too close to give up. I think I stopped at each 20 paces not 50, but I was determined to make it to the top. I finally made it to the top!
After a short rest I was ready to start back down. It was much easier on the breathing going down, but harder on the knees. The crew gave me a good start, but soon caught and passed me as they flip-flopped their way down! They are like mountain goats. I was the last to return, in the company of Joe. Back at the beach many were dousing themselves in the cold water to cool off. Memories of fever and chills from last night kept me from thoroughly partaking, but I did cool off my hot tired feet. Soon we were back in the boats and headed downstream once again. As we neared the confluence with the Little Colorado River the colorful Bright Angel Shale layers became even more impressive with their layers of greens, brown and purples. However, at Mile 61, the Little Colorado was a thick muddy brown flow. Definitely the antithesis of the sparkling clear blue river I remembered. I was disappointed for my fellow travelers that they would not get to experience and enjoy this little piece of Paradise. A couple of passengers who disembarked sank up to their knees in the mud. I stayed firmly on the boat! Just past the confluence we passed the sacred Hopi salt deposits along the left cliff. Hopi Indians made long pilgrimages from their villages to collect this salt. On river right we saw the gleaming of metal high on Chaur Butte where wreckage still remains of 2 jet aircraft that crashed in midair over Grand Canyon in 1955.
The next stop was for lunch on river right at Carbon Creek (Mile 64). The Mexican Train Wreck salad on pitas was especially good as I was actually beginning to taste food again! The vista from the beach was the Grand Canyon opening up, with the Desert View Watch Tower in the distance on the South Rim. While lunch was being prepared I took a quick walk up the beach to the mouth of the wash and found some interesting river fluted rocks. The Canyon is much more open here with impressive long distance views that you do not get in the gorges. There is much more variation in the rocks at this point in the Canyon. They rock types are referred to as the "Grand Canyon Supergroup" that includes more rocks than I care to name that are a mixture of sandstones, lava, and basalts. Various faults and earth movements have tilted these formations and caused offsets between one side of the Canyon and the other.
At Tanner Canyon (mile 68) we stopped at river right for an early camp and the chance to do an archeology hike with Joe. Much as I would have loved to do this hike I was already “rock scrambled” out for the day after Nankoweap, and didn’t relish the thought of straining my still tender sore throat with a hot dry hike. I decided to sit this one out and find myself a cozy spot on the beach to relax for a while and take a bath while the sun was still strong and warm. The split was about half and half between those that hiked and those that opted for hanging out. While the hiking group was away Elk entertained us with his guitar. It was a very pleasant way to spend the afternoon and allowed me some much needed warm dry recovery time. Dinner tonight was a surprise for me. Spaghetti, salad, garlic bread and strawberry shortcake, which we did not have on the first trip. It was delicious. Anyone who knows me will not be surprised at how much of it traveled the remainder of the trip embedded in my pj’s t-shirt! After dinner Joe treated us all to a tour of the stars. I was particularly enjoyed seeing the yellow/red blinking Antares in the Scorpion system. Given that this area is known as Furnace Flats is was quite a strange to experience such a cool damp night here. When I awoke there appeared to have been a water seeping through the sand below my bed and my pillow and sleeping bag were both cold and damp.
Breakfast this morning was french toast and bacon, and we were soon on the river. Today was to be a long river day after such a short day yesterday. The wide open Canyon continued for around 8 miles down to Hance Rapid.
At Hance Rapid the Canyon changes once again and we entered the Upper Granite Gorge. The wide vistas are replaced by the vertical limestone cliffs. The river was running very low so the guides pulled over on river right to scout the rapid. The remainder of the group took this as an opportunity to do a little “relieving” and those that did not want to get wet in the rapid donned rain gear. The ride through Hance was relatively smooth considering how many rocks were showing through the shallow churning water, but Josh did ding his propeller on the way down and had to change it out at the bottom.
We stopped at the Phantom Ranch Beach a little before lunchtime. The chief purpose of the stop was to restock with fresh drinking water, but as it was lunchtime we walked up to Phantom Ranch to sit in air conditioned air for a few minutes, and mail postcards which would be carried by mule to the South Rim. I didn’t think it was worth mailing a card to Mark, doubting that it would get home before I did, so I mailed one to myself instead. Of course, the postcard proved me wrong and did make it home before me. Returning from Phantom Ranch I made it off the trail just in time to not get run over by the mules. We found the sandwich table set up on the beach, ate lunch, and continued downstream. Shortly after Phantom Ranch is the second of the two footbridges, Bright Angel Bridge, then a brief view of the South Rim observation point where I had got my first view of the Colorado River that had started this obsession with the Grand Canyon.We had a wonderful afternoon of hot sunshine, cold rapids, and sheep. The best dousing of the afternoon had to be at Horn Creek rapid where the wave totally engulfed the raft so that from the front boat all that could be seen was the two boatmen, Joe and Elk, in the back surrounded by frothy water. Joe’s engine stalled in Horn Creek and we had a tense but quiet few moments while it recovered and he managed to restart it. Fortunately we didn’t hit anything or get stuck on top of anything while drifting. Then we tackled jewels rapids, and they were all fun, though Joe was obviously experiencing some engine issues, and finally pulled over just below Tuna rapid to change out the engine with the spare. It was very quickly done, and we all believe that Joe happened to provide Tootsie Roll suckers to us at that particular moment just to shut us all up so we would not ask questions and he could just get on with it. No watch to time him on, but it seemed like only 5 – 10 minutes to change out. Though obviously the downstream boat had been concerned about us missing for even such a short time when we caught up to them. The last highlight of the day for me was Serpentine Rapid, where I persuaded Joe to let me ride the duffle pile face forward into the rapid. It’s an awesome ride to see the waves coming up at you from that position. It also persuaded me that I was feeling much better that I was even interested in doing it! My sore throat was receding to a scratchy throat and body temperature was acting normally.
Camp tonight is at mile 107 on river right in an area of basalt rocks that retained heat. It was very easy to dry out. I even found a nice rocky area with a rock ledge that I could easily sit on to bathe and do laundry. I had a hard time debating over my choice of sleeping place tonight. Close to the river’s edge, but about 15’ above river level was an unusual circular rock depression. Almost like an 8’ circular cave without a roof. I was very tempted to use this as my private bedroom, except for the hard and rather un-level floor, and the complexity of dragging all my gear in and out again. Then there was the issue of having to rock scramble to get in and out as needed for bathroom trips in the night. Ultimately I decided that my first choice of level but packed sand close to the kitchen was a better choice. Dinner tonight was Pork Chops, apple sauce, beans and squash, with cobbler for dessert (for those who got to it quick enough!) It was a pleasant night, and warmer than the previous one, but the ants and mosquitoes took their fair share of human flesh at this location. One passenger was stung by a scorpion when he accidentally transferred it into his tent on a damp piece of clothing that had been left out on a rock. Wednesday breakfast was fill your own omelets. Delicious. My throat was a lot better today. Not sore at all, but I didn’t really have a proper voice going. It drifted in and out all day. I guess I sounded much worse that I felt. The worst part for me not was I was not able to scream my delight at the rapids!
Back on the river, the first stop for the day was at Elves Chasm (mile 116). I had hiked up to enjoy Elves Chasm on the last trip, but had not really enjoyed the trip back due to a particularly nasty sloped rock with a huge chasm and drop in the middle of it. I knew I would not be jumping from any waterfalls anyway, so decided not to torture everyone with having to coax me back over that nasty rock. I stayed down at the lower pools and falls in Elves Chasm. When the group returned from the hike we traveled a short distance downstream to pull up at a small beach on river right at mile 117 for lunch. Again, while the lunch tables were set up for ‘make-it-yourself’ sandwiches I took another little walk around the extent of the beach and found some interesting wind and water eroded rocks. 
This afternoon we continued to have engine issues with stalls in both Bedrock and Duebendorf rapids. Either they happened in very fortuitous places or Joe is the best boatman ever, because somehow we managed not to get stuck on anything while drifting in this low water! Our afternoon stop is at Deer Creek Falls. I decided not to do the steep hike to the top just on past advice that it is extremely narrow in places and not good for anyone with height issues. Rather than just go into the waterfall side canyon I attempted to climb the big chunk of rock outside the canyon entrance to see if I could get a different view of the falls. I made it almost all the way up, but was stopped by a sloping slab of sandstone, which obscured an elevated view of the falls. I could probably have ascended it, but was not sure I could safely descend again. Not wanting to have to test my squeaky voice by screaming for help if I got stuck, I turned around to return to terra firma! This little side trip caused me my worst injury of the trip when I scraped the side of my right knee against a rock. Not particularly painful, but it did result in a nice purple and green bruise with an abrasion in the middle! Of course, I eventually had to go into the canyon below the falls for the obligatory “standing in the gale force outflow from the waterfall” picture.Our camp for tonight is river left at mile 138 just a short way down from Deer Creek. There are 2 campgrounds in close proximity and the lower camp was taken by a private group. A unique feature of this particular side canyon was the way that sound traveled around the rear wall. Small sounds made at one end of the beach were surprisingly easy to hear at the other parts of the beach. I noticed this particularly strongly when doing my nightly exploration around and camp. Even though once again slightly feverish I managed to climb above the camp onto a rock outcrop to take some pictures. While on this outcrop I could hear the water running past the beach and boats as if I were sitting right next to it. Dinner was Burritos, beans and rice with fruit salad. A large part of the evening was spent making massive amounts of noise trying to out shout the downstream camp. Their group had bongo drums, we had Elk’s guitar and a few loud voices (not my intermittent squeak). I think we may have won, but that is subjective! They definitely lasted later into the night than we did!
Thursday Morning breakfast was breakfast cereal, fruit and muffins. This morning we also made our sandwiches in advance to give us more options for a lunch hike. My voice was still wavering in and out, but the fever that had tried to recur last night was thankfully not active again this morning. We were very fortunate this morning to be able to stop at Matkatamiba Canyon (mile 148). This was another hike I would have loved to have done on the last trip, but again, limited parking had prevented us stopping. I consider myself very lucky to have been able to stop at both Nankoweap and Matkat on the same trip. The hike up Matkat is short, and wet for some of the way then with an option for low, wet and slippery, or high and dry. I opted for high and dry going upstream. It had one place where I was rather short leg challenged in being able to get up onto the next ledge, but eventually managed some sidestepping to get me up on the ledge. A short way up the slot canyon widens out. The small but permanent stream pools then flows down to the next pool. The ‘in’ thing to do here is to create “butt dams” to block the water temporarily in a pool, then release the dam quickly to allow the water to rush downstream. It’s even more fun if you build a stack of rocks downstream of the dam to be wash away by the released flood. After the butt dam experience I continued upstream to enjoy the large pools and falls of the canyon. All too soon it was time to leave. The decision was taken to hike back on the same high and dry route we had used to hike in. For some reason it seemed a little harder making our way downstream than up, and I became especially aware of the more prickly canyon inhabitants! As we all struggled along, hanging onto rocks, and carefully watching for the next foothold, we found ourselves face to face with a Bighorn sheep on the other side of the narrow slot. We named him the “Showoff Sheep” for his total nonchalance leaping steadyfooted from rock to precarious rock without even seeming to look. He reminded us a lot of our guides except he didn’t have flip-flops! Soon we were all splashing back down into the bottom of the slot for the final wet rock scramble back to the boats.
We continued downstream, and Josh made the decision to eat lunch on the rafts to give us a little extra time. As we ran the next 30 miles we passed through some light rain just downstream of Havasu canyon and a grey sky with lightning which looked like it was prepared to give us a nasty storm, but then didn’t. We reached Lava Falls about mid afternoon and Joe prepared us, and then himself to run Lava!Below Lava is a clear spring (above right) on river left. We pulled over on river right below Lower Lava for a bathroom and stretch break. Many of us scrambled up the beach expecting to see a Western River Expeditions raft follow us through. We waited several minutes, but the never materialized, so all we got were some scenic photos of Lava Falls with no boats in it. Shortly after Lava we passed Chock stone Camp on river left where we had spent the last night of my previous trip, then the Whitmore helicopter pad where I departed the river. Everything below this point is new Canyon to me now. We stopped for the night at mile 188, river right, at Whitmore Wash. Just as the boats parked a storm started building in the side Canyon. Everybody except me started scrambling to erect tents. I was still hoping that I would be able to sleep without a tent, and had picked a small bed site that didn’t seem big enough to erect a tent. I wandered around looking for another suitable site big enough for a tent, but didn’t find anything I liked. By the time I returned to my original spot, with tent in hand and ready to erect it, the rain started in earnest, complete with lightening and thunder. Lucky for me, Becky in the site behind me had completed her tent setup and invited me to join her. The rain didn’t last too long, and was not heavy by Florida standards, but there was enough wet to persuade me that I was going to have to set the tent up for tonight! The crew set up a canopy to cook under and prepared a delicious Lasagna, garlic bread and salad, with carrot cake dessert which we ate in the dark. Right at the end of dinner it started to rain again. Everyone scrambled for their tents. The rain was light and lasted only a few minutes, but by then the party had broken up and everyone stayed in bed. Even the crew set up their tents on the boat for the night, so I decided I was just going to have to suffer the night in my tent! As it turned out, there was no more rain that night. This was probably my most uncomfortable night as I was not used to the rustling of the tent. I didn’t close the tent door to relieve the stuffiness, but unfortunately the restroom wash and key line had been placed right next to my tent, so I awoke in the morning to the “early groover line” outside my door! Maybe it was the rain, but we were all very slow getting started this morning. Breakfast was fluffy pancakes, sausage, and strawberries. I ate mine without Tabasco this time around. It definitely tasted much better with syrup! I was feeling much better this morning, despite not having slept well. My voice was much more consistent, though still wavering in and out occasionally.
Friday Morning - Not surprisingly, this new (to me) lower portion of the Canyon looks very much like, and just as beautiful as the upper portions. The biggest difference is more volcanic features. This morning we passed a hematite mine shaped like a lion. Around mile 212 we stopped for a short hike over some eroded rock that looked like swiss cheese. Josh and Joe drove the boats downstream a short distance to a beach on rivr left, while Elk led us on a short hike over and into (for some) the holey rocks and past Pumpkin Springs, a travertine bowl filled with green mineral laden water (below), then down to meet up with the boats and the tuna salad lunch awaiting us on the beach below. 
Back on the boats and continuing downstream, Joe and Elk got out the kite. The plan was to try to fly it out all the way to the end of the string spool. With a little help initially Elk succeeded in getting it airborne,then slowly fed out the entire spool, an unmeasured distance, but probably a couple hundred feet. The kite not only went all the way up, but stayed flying down past Diamond Peak. Elk finally had to reel in the kite to get it under the water gauge station cable crossing the river.
At mile 229 we stopped for a short hike/climb up Travertine Canyon to the waterfall above where we played briefly in the waterfall. The climb up and back down to the falls is assisted by a series of ropes and rope ladders which makes the climb possible even for those of us with short legs and not much climbing ability. The ladders were slippery enough to appreciate being back on solid ground though! Our stop for tonight, the final night was on river left at Bridge Canyon (mile 235). The camping was probably the closest together of the whole trip as we were all basically spread out along a fairly narrow ledge. I was determined to sleep out in the open again tonight after the restless night last night, and that made it easier to squeeze my bed in between a couple of tents. For all my convincing myself that I didn’t care whether the Colorado would be clear green or muddy brown, my only worry had been the thought of bathing in muddy water. I had managed so far, but the water had not been really muddy up until now. Tonight I just could not bring myself to bath in the “too thick to drink, too thin to plow” water. I settled for a wet wipe bath instead! We had a comfortable pre dinner crowd, augmented by a bright orange sunset lit cloud Dinner tonight was steak, perfect mashed potatoes, salad, and dutch oven chocolate/vanilla swirl cake. It was eaten in the dark, and the crew all said a few words about the trip, and or read an inspirational verse. We all retired to bed not really wanting to face the reality that the trip was almost over. We were so closely packed that I kept my flashlight burning by my bedside all night to prevent being stepped on!
Our final morning. We woke to the sound of a hornets nest! That’s what it sounded like at least, but it turned out to be bees, not interested in humans, but seeking the pollen laden plants along our beach. It was a beautiful morning. Such a shame to have to leave the canyon. After breakfast of French toast and bacon, and loading the boats with our own freshly repacked bags the whole group posed for the group photo.
Next was the guides turn, with Joe providing the moon shot before obliging for a formal photo with his butt in his pants! We loaded onto the rafts for the final time. The inner two pontoons had been removed and the rafts tied together for the final few miles downstream. We had a little excitement when a small mouse stowaway was discovered aboard, but after eliciting a few screams it soon slipped into the gap between the two boats and finally fell into the water. Joe read aloud to us for the last time, though I confess I was rather zoned out at the time, and, sitting in the back, could not hear what he was saying anyway over the motor noise of the 2 rafts.
After several miles we were met by the jet boat which would take us the final 30 some miles down to Lake Mead and South Cove. The bags were transferred, along with lunch, sodas, and unfortunately us. Final hugs were exchanged and we were whisked away by our new Captain Joe. The rafts were pulling into the first available beach to continue disassembling the pontoons as we left. The scenery goes by much faster at 50 mph, and we were not able to stand at all. The Canyon is still impressive though as it reaches the Grand Wash Cliffs and dissolves into Lake Mead. At Iceberg Canyon the water level is so low that we had to brace ourselves against the possibility of clipping a sand bar. Captain Joe knew his stuff though and we passed through without incident. After iceberg canyon we pass into the deeper water of Lake Mead. The cold Colorado water sinks rapidly below the warmer and clear blue lake water.
It was a short trip on the Lake to South Cove. The jet boat tied up but unfortunately there was no bus there to meet us. There had been some miscommunication and the bus driver believed he was supposed to meet us at 1:30. It was a little after noon when we landed, so we all sat on the lakeside and ate our sandwiches we had packed earlier. Lucky for us there was a good cloud cover which blocked any direct sunlight. It would have been much hotter in the sun. As it was several of us spent some time dunking and floating off the boat ramps. It was strange though, the water was too warm! Eventually the bus arrived and after a short restroom break at the boat ramp parking lot we were on our way back to Vegas. We stopped briefly a couple of times on the way. At Peach Springs, AZ for cold sodas, beer and ice cream, and again at Hoover Dam for photos. The final picture below was our last look at Lake Mead, and the now blue Colorado waters.
The hour plus wait for the bus affected me more than anyone else as I had the first flight out from Vegas at 5pm. We arrived at the airport at 4:20pm and I raced in. The SouthWest check in lines were about a quarter mile long! I love kiosk check in. One swipe of my frequent flyer card and I had my boarding pass in less than a minute! On a roll I ran to the escalator, and at the top to security. Being 9/11, of course security was a little tighter than usual and those five carefully packed and waterproofed little packs of 4 AA rechargeable batteries were obviously going to cause a delay! Having to have someone poke through my REALLY smelly damp muddy laundry was even worse! But smiling through it and allowing the security agent full access to anything and everything in the bag made the ordeal pass fairly quickly. I made the flight with 3 ½ minutes to spare! Lucky for me it was not totally full. I even managed to get an exit row seat (so only one person had to suffer my unwashed, diesel dipped, run for the plane in fleece and 90 degrees, sweaty odor!)
So am I done with the Canyon now that I have done the whole thing? Not even close! Now I KNOW I want to do a longer trip, probably an oar trip. Shame I can’t get on a month long oar trip! Not this year though. Maybe next year. Maybe I will even have to wait to 2006.
But I’ll be back!
View more photos in my Picasa album
Friday, June 4, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 7
Friday – we knew it had to come eventually!
I was awake again before the coffee this morning, and started packing up for the last time into my own bag which until now has been stuffed in the very bottom of my large personal E6 bag. It is sad to be packing up, as I’ve had a great time, and would be happy to continue down river for at least another week. I know some in the group are anxious for a proper bathroom, hot water, and a real bed. I had good night’s sleep, though I did wake several times, and checked the water level for rising water each time. I think I finally proved that I can indeed sleep anywhere. As I went to roll up my bed, under my sleeping bag was my camera, a notepad and pen, a stick of deodorant, and MaryBeth’s waterbottle! I guess those were the rocks I thought were poking me in the night. My next surprise was that the valve on my sleeping pad was not closed. It’s not exactly airtight in that state! The water level is much higher than when we went to bed. It is also much muddier than we have seen the whole trip. Trey later mentions that he has not seen the river this high in about 8 months and speculates that the muddiness is coming off beaches, just like ours here that got flooded last night, but have not been wet in some time.
Breakfast this morning was Breakfast Burritos. I sure will miss having breakfast cooked for me. After breakfast everyone finished packing their gear into our own travel bags instead of the waterproof bags, and we all gathered on the beach for our final duffle line. The crew made busy preparing the boats for their continuing journey down river. They will deposit us on a beach a few minutes downstream of here, and pick up a new, and larger group for a 1 ½ day, 1 night trip down the remainder of the canyon to Lake Mead. We know they won’t have as much fun as we have had, and we are sorry that we have to leave. I would gladly continue down the river with them. The only thing that prevents me, apart from the minor details of flights arranged, work and home to go back to, etc. is the fact that the water is no longer the clear green that I have become used to. I decide to save the lower canyon until I have another opportunity and hope for clear water next time.
Finally, with the boats loaded, we gather for a group photo, and reboard the rafts for the last time. The last few miles are calm and quiet. At least until we hear, and then see, the helicopter in the distance, coming down from the North Rim. It’s small. A 6-seater, and doing flips in the canyon turning round to get the correct angle to land. I know I’m not the only one hoping it goes steadier than that when it goes out again. I start looking for ways to hike out!
In the last half mile before the beach we saw much more columnar lava.
The passengers from the Hatch boat we had been playing tag with all week was already up at the pad when we arrived. They had 2 full helicopter loads. There were already a couple of incoming passengers for our onward traveling boat waiting on the beach. We unloaded our bags for the last time, shared hugs and goodbyes with fellow passengers and crew, then the crew started setting up the personal and day bags on the beach for their new passengers. It was like we never existed! Just kidding. I know I will never forget them, and the wonderful experiences they had shared with us, both on and off the river. I hope we left them a few good memories too, and not only the times they had to pick us up, dust us off, and shove us up over rocks!
As each group of 6 loaded onto the helicopter, 6 more new passengers would stagger down onto the beach, and 6 more of our group would move up to the pad. The new passengers were instructed to pick a bag number, just as we had been, and transfer their luggage into it. Some of them seemed to have more luggage for an overnight trip than we had for a whole week, and I suddenly found myself grateful that I won’t be in that duffle line! Like the old hands we were at this, we found ourselves helping the bewildered few: pushing out air from heavily packed bags, rolling tops down tightly, explaining the metal clasps, etc...
It really was hard to be leaving, but soon we were down to 7 left on the pad. Not that I would deliberately chose to be deserted from my group, but realizing that 6 into 19 is always going to leave 1 over, I volunteered to be the remaining straggler as long as I got to ride the shotgun seat. The weight has to be evenly distributed in the helicopter, and I could just see myself being stuck in the middle of the back seat between 2 strangers (the next boat to unload, I think a Western River Adventures, had by now pulled up on the beach). Not the way I wanted to finish my grand adventure! There were actually 5 from the next boat going to the Bar 10 Ranch, so we made a full load. I was glad I had bagged the front seat. The helicopter returned, and we quickly loaded, strapped in, and were off. I took a final picture of our rafts, just as they were loading on their new passengers.
By the time I got up to the Bar 10 Ranch the group going back to Vegas were already loaded on a bus waiting to ride out to the small airplane. So much for a shower, cold drink and souvenir shopping! I ran into the gift store, grabbed a T-shirt, then realized I didn’t have money (not surprising after a week without using it!). I found my bag sitting on the lawn where presumably it had come up and been dumped with the last full load of our group. At that moment I remembered I was supposed to have checked in with some guy (or two), with a clipboard. I saw him and checked in. He offered to carry my bag, and hustled my purchase in the gift shop. I completed the T-shirt purchase and ran to the bus, totally forgetting to check that my bag had indeed been carried there. After all the relaxation and easy time, suddenly I was being jerked back to reality in a rush! I finally remembered my bag at the end of the ride when we departed the bus, but only because I happened to see it as I got off! We transferred to the plane for the flight home. I also forgot to get the picture of the “International Airport” sign. I guess I’ll have to go back now!
On arrival in Vegas the group quickly started to scatter. Some were met at the airport, the remainder loaded on a bus for the ride back to the hotel and airport. I called home as soon as I could get a cell phone signal, but was told that ‘Yes, I had to go home today, and could not go back and go around again!’ It was stuffy and hot on the bus, without the benefit of the naturally cooling river breeze. The glitz of Vegas seemed completely unreal after the natural beauty of the canyon. I really did want to go back to the Canyon.
At the hotel most of us piled off and collected checked luggage, while several went on to the airport. Once bags were claimed many were transferring to other hotels on the Strip for a true Vegas weekend. We contented ourselves with a ‘check in now – don’t care what we get’ room at the Hawthorne Suites. We would not get to sleep in it anyway, as we are flying out on the redeye back to Atlanta. Paul decided to share our room as we would not be needing it overnight anyway, and it was already paid for. He was welcome to it. All I wanted it for was the shower, which I took cold. The remaining purpose of the room was to repack the bags and make them suitable for checking if necessary. MaryBeth’s bag took the most packing, with all those heavy Bellagio souvenirs! As soon as we were suitably packed we left the room to Paul for a while and went for a repeat lunch at Alladin. I confess I did not enjoy it near as much this time after being spoiled all week!
So what is next? Need I say I want to go back? My bruises have begun to fade but the memories certainly have not. The trip was awe inspiring and exhilarating. I would love to do it again. I would love to be able to talk Mark into joining me, and have not given up on that yet. But almost. If I did it again without Mark, I would want to go even slower this time, with more time to “stop and smell the canyon.” I enjoyed the rapids immensely, so would not worry so much about them, therefore, I don’t have the same limitation of needing a big solid boat that I imposed on myself this time. I would still be cautious about a boat flipping. I have been in that cold water - fully dressed and almost unable to swim in it! I would definitely consider an oar trip but it would have to be with the right guide. TJ or Trey were both great drivers that I would trust, but I’d probably have to feel that safe with a driver before I could commit to a smaller boat. I would definitely book with Arizona River Runners again. The food was great, the equipment good, clean, and comfortable. They kept safety paramount, and were constantly concerned for our welfare. They encouraged us to succeed, and helped us up when we began to falter. They took genuine care of us. My expectations were very high, and they were exceeded 200%.
See more photos
I was awake again before the coffee this morning, and started packing up for the last time into my own bag which until now has been stuffed in the very bottom of my large personal E6 bag. It is sad to be packing up, as I’ve had a great time, and would be happy to continue down river for at least another week. I know some in the group are anxious for a proper bathroom, hot water, and a real bed. I had good night’s sleep, though I did wake several times, and checked the water level for rising water each time. I think I finally proved that I can indeed sleep anywhere. As I went to roll up my bed, under my sleeping bag was my camera, a notepad and pen, a stick of deodorant, and MaryBeth’s waterbottle! I guess those were the rocks I thought were poking me in the night. My next surprise was that the valve on my sleeping pad was not closed. It’s not exactly airtight in that state! The water level is much higher than when we went to bed. It is also much muddier than we have seen the whole trip. Trey later mentions that he has not seen the river this high in about 8 months and speculates that the muddiness is coming off beaches, just like ours here that got flooded last night, but have not been wet in some time.
Breakfast this morning was Breakfast Burritos. I sure will miss having breakfast cooked for me. After breakfast everyone finished packing their gear into our own travel bags instead of the waterproof bags, and we all gathered on the beach for our final duffle line. The crew made busy preparing the boats for their continuing journey down river. They will deposit us on a beach a few minutes downstream of here, and pick up a new, and larger group for a 1 ½ day, 1 night trip down the remainder of the canyon to Lake Mead. We know they won’t have as much fun as we have had, and we are sorry that we have to leave. I would gladly continue down the river with them. The only thing that prevents me, apart from the minor details of flights arranged, work and home to go back to, etc. is the fact that the water is no longer the clear green that I have become used to. I decide to save the lower canyon until I have another opportunity and hope for clear water next time.
Finally, with the boats loaded, we gather for a group photo, and reboard the rafts for the last time. The last few miles are calm and quiet. At least until we hear, and then see, the helicopter in the distance, coming down from the North Rim. It’s small. A 6-seater, and doing flips in the canyon turning round to get the correct angle to land. I know I’m not the only one hoping it goes steadier than that when it goes out again. I start looking for ways to hike out!
In the last half mile before the beach we saw much more columnar lava.
The passengers from the Hatch boat we had been playing tag with all week was already up at the pad when we arrived. They had 2 full helicopter loads. There were already a couple of incoming passengers for our onward traveling boat waiting on the beach. We unloaded our bags for the last time, shared hugs and goodbyes with fellow passengers and crew, then the crew started setting up the personal and day bags on the beach for their new passengers. It was like we never existed! Just kidding. I know I will never forget them, and the wonderful experiences they had shared with us, both on and off the river. I hope we left them a few good memories too, and not only the times they had to pick us up, dust us off, and shove us up over rocks!
As each group of 6 loaded onto the helicopter, 6 more new passengers would stagger down onto the beach, and 6 more of our group would move up to the pad. The new passengers were instructed to pick a bag number, just as we had been, and transfer their luggage into it. Some of them seemed to have more luggage for an overnight trip than we had for a whole week, and I suddenly found myself grateful that I won’t be in that duffle line! Like the old hands we were at this, we found ourselves helping the bewildered few: pushing out air from heavily packed bags, rolling tops down tightly, explaining the metal clasps, etc...
It really was hard to be leaving, but soon we were down to 7 left on the pad. Not that I would deliberately chose to be deserted from my group, but realizing that 6 into 19 is always going to leave 1 over, I volunteered to be the remaining straggler as long as I got to ride the shotgun seat. The weight has to be evenly distributed in the helicopter, and I could just see myself being stuck in the middle of the back seat between 2 strangers (the next boat to unload, I think a Western River Adventures, had by now pulled up on the beach). Not the way I wanted to finish my grand adventure! There were actually 5 from the next boat going to the Bar 10 Ranch, so we made a full load. I was glad I had bagged the front seat. The helicopter returned, and we quickly loaded, strapped in, and were off. I took a final picture of our rafts, just as they were loading on their new passengers.
By the time I got up to the Bar 10 Ranch the group going back to Vegas were already loaded on a bus waiting to ride out to the small airplane. So much for a shower, cold drink and souvenir shopping! I ran into the gift store, grabbed a T-shirt, then realized I didn’t have money (not surprising after a week without using it!). I found my bag sitting on the lawn where presumably it had come up and been dumped with the last full load of our group. At that moment I remembered I was supposed to have checked in with some guy (or two), with a clipboard. I saw him and checked in. He offered to carry my bag, and hustled my purchase in the gift shop. I completed the T-shirt purchase and ran to the bus, totally forgetting to check that my bag had indeed been carried there. After all the relaxation and easy time, suddenly I was being jerked back to reality in a rush! I finally remembered my bag at the end of the ride when we departed the bus, but only because I happened to see it as I got off! We transferred to the plane for the flight home. I also forgot to get the picture of the “International Airport” sign. I guess I’ll have to go back now!
On arrival in Vegas the group quickly started to scatter. Some were met at the airport, the remainder loaded on a bus for the ride back to the hotel and airport. I called home as soon as I could get a cell phone signal, but was told that ‘Yes, I had to go home today, and could not go back and go around again!’ It was stuffy and hot on the bus, without the benefit of the naturally cooling river breeze. The glitz of Vegas seemed completely unreal after the natural beauty of the canyon. I really did want to go back to the Canyon.
At the hotel most of us piled off and collected checked luggage, while several went on to the airport. Once bags were claimed many were transferring to other hotels on the Strip for a true Vegas weekend. We contented ourselves with a ‘check in now – don’t care what we get’ room at the Hawthorne Suites. We would not get to sleep in it anyway, as we are flying out on the redeye back to Atlanta. Paul decided to share our room as we would not be needing it overnight anyway, and it was already paid for. He was welcome to it. All I wanted it for was the shower, which I took cold. The remaining purpose of the room was to repack the bags and make them suitable for checking if necessary. MaryBeth’s bag took the most packing, with all those heavy Bellagio souvenirs! As soon as we were suitably packed we left the room to Paul for a while and went for a repeat lunch at Alladin. I confess I did not enjoy it near as much this time after being spoiled all week!
So what is next? Need I say I want to go back? My bruises have begun to fade but the memories certainly have not. The trip was awe inspiring and exhilarating. I would love to do it again. I would love to be able to talk Mark into joining me, and have not given up on that yet. But almost. If I did it again without Mark, I would want to go even slower this time, with more time to “stop and smell the canyon.” I enjoyed the rapids immensely, so would not worry so much about them, therefore, I don’t have the same limitation of needing a big solid boat that I imposed on myself this time. I would still be cautious about a boat flipping. I have been in that cold water - fully dressed and almost unable to swim in it! I would definitely consider an oar trip but it would have to be with the right guide. TJ or Trey were both great drivers that I would trust, but I’d probably have to feel that safe with a driver before I could commit to a smaller boat. I would definitely book with Arizona River Runners again. The food was great, the equipment good, clean, and comfortable. They kept safety paramount, and were constantly concerned for our welfare. They encouraged us to succeed, and helped us up when we began to falter. They took genuine care of us. My expectations were very high, and they were exceeded 200%.
See more photos
Thursday, June 3, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 6
Thursday
In the morning I was back to my habit of being up before the coffee boiled. For the first time the whole trip I noticed a change in the water level. The little pool I had used to bathe in yesterday was now dry. As this was drop in the level not a raise I assume the river must have already gone up yesterday afternoon and had now dropped again as I would not have expected the level to drop below the already low 8000 cfs we had seen for the majority or the trip.
Breakfast this morning is Trey’s wonderful cooked to order eggs, toasted muffins, and assorted cereals.
Our last full day on the river! Back in TJ’s boat. Today starts with a peaceful, if a little cool, cruise down through 20 miles of canyon from Deer Creek to Havasu Canyon. Time to reflect on the river and its canyon. It’s easy to believe that the river has not even noticed our passing. My passing through however, has made me realize that for every balanced rock that looks ready to drop any second there have been years, centuries, or perhaps millennia of seconds at which it could have dropped. In a hundred years people will likely still see those same rocks and expect they could fall any second. The canyon is timeless. Life has slowed to river pace for me in the past 5 days, but that has been a mere blink of an eye for this river. For every artificial power producing, water and silt retaining dam we could create in the path of this river, it has surpassed, surmounted, or carved it’s way around greater natural blockages and dams in the millions of years of it’s existence. This natural wonder should be preserved for our future generations, but in it’s grand scheme our 200 year life expectancy dams, or anything else we create, we will have little long term affect on the river and it’s canyons. It was here before man walked the earth, if we destroy it, we are only continuing down a path that ultimately destroys ourselves, and it will recover without us when we’re gone.
We landed at Havasu Canyon. A rather precarious landing, with water pouring into our motor well and the raft bouncing choppily at it’s mooring at the upriver end of around 5 boats already tied in the rapid. Trey’s raft pulled in further downriver in a newly vacated spot. The Hatch, GCE, and Canyoneer’s (snowflake) rafts were already there when we tied up. Lindsey hardly even got a chance to talk to Travis before leading us into Havasu Canyon, heading for a swimming hole where we can all enjoy the cool water for a while. The scramble over rocks, through the creek twice and over the debris pile of tree trunks was well worth it to swim below the falls. Many of the group jumped from the rocks above the falls, others just hung out in the cool spray and water. No-one was ready for the hour to be over and have to get back to the rafts for lunch.
During our absence there was much activity at the rapids. A raft coming downstream had flipped, another already tied up had popped out of the water and landed up on the ledges. Fortunately neither of our rafts was involved and no-one on the other rafts was hurt. By the time we all scrambled down the rocks our own two rafts were all that remained, firmly tied to shore. For the next several miles until our lunch stop several pieces of raft debris, including a lettuce and a Coors Light were recovered from the river. Lunch was on a small beach on river right, opposite another group from Grand Canyon Expeditions on a similar shaded beach. They were almost finished when we pulled up, and as our shade increased, theirs was decreasing. They soon moved on. Lunch was chicken salad sandwiches. Delicious as usual. Back on the river again there are not many rapids in this section. I was looking forward to the next change of scenery which would be the introduction of volcanic rocks, and our final big rapid at Lava Falls. We also got our best view of a Bighorn sheep taking his own lunch at the water’s edge on a small grassy beach.
Vulcan’s Anvil is believed to be either the volcanic neck; the core left behind where a volcanohas eroded away, or the plug of a volcano when was ejected in an eruption. I prefer the neck theory myself. Not sure exactly why, but it seems easier to believe that a volcano could have been here once and that the river was then capable of wearing away 360 degrees of softer rock hillside, than a several hundred foot long piece of lava shooting through the air and landing unright exactly in the path of a river. Totally non-scientific reasoning! As we passed Vulcan’s anvil we were told to prepare for the biggest rapids of our trip: Lava Falls, the fastest 8 seconds of navigable white water anywhere. I had totally lost any trepidation I originally had for rapids at this point and was quick to volunteer to ride the duffle pile, face first and flat on the belly, through Lava Falls. One other passenger also wanted to enjoy that ride. Julie donned her raingear and attempted to make herself waterproof, while I chose to go down without extra gear. It was fairly late in the afternoon, the sun was hot, and I knew we would be stopping for the night fairly soon anyway, so I wasn’t too concerned about getting wet. Everyone added or removed gear to suit their choice, checked the security of the day bags, etc. and Julie and I rearranged the duffle pile so we could position ourselves flat on top, get good handholds, and not have anything fly up to hit us hard.
When we were all ready, and hanging on tight, TJ lined us up on the rapid and we slid in. The next few seconds were some of the most exhilarating I can imagine. We slipped over the the first wave, though with quite a splash, bucked on the second wave, and then looming right in front of my face was a wall of frothey green and white water! Needless to say, it did not stay in front for more than a fraction of a second before we crashed into it and it broke over our heads and all around us. I felt myself lifted briefly up off the duffle pile and shifted left, but thanks to a good hold did not actually move too much. It was an incredible 8 seconds, if that’s all it was. I was very wet, and I think I can say I definitely do not have a problem with rapids! (at least in the hands of a skilled and competent guide). Given the chance I would have immediately turned around and done it again. Instead we satisfied ourselves with turning in the backwater below to watch Trey’s raft come through. They too had an awesome ride, though no-one rode the duffle on their raft (possibly due to the 3 children being on that raft – it is likely that it was just not mentioned to save fights over who should do it, or perhaps to save any parent from having to say no!)
After Lava, everyone celebrated with a beer. We had made it down the river, tackled rapids at low and high water (TJ commented that Lava Falls was running big by this time). We had only a few miles to continue before our stop for the last night. The Canyon landscape had changed to primarily volcanic. We passed several large volcanic chunks midriver, and started noticing the layered columnar lava flows in the canyon walls. The hexagonal columns are formed when lava of a specific viscosity and chemistry cools. The difference in column size and composition can help distinguish the different flows, which are often layered on top of each other.
Lava flows dammed the canyon several times in this area, sometimes these natural dams caused a lake 150 miles long. The river’s response to this was to cut a new channel for itself in the softer sedimentary rocks, and leave the old lava dammed channels behind.
We soon arrived at the campsite for our last night’s camp. I believe it was around mile 186 or 187. We considered a sandy ledge as a potential place for our site, but I had been concerned that the water level may rise. That concern eventually came to fruition. By the time we returned from Dinner this night the water had risen up and was lapping against some bags and the group camped there had to move to higher ground. About one hour after they moved the ledge was completely under water. At this point we also moved MaryBeth’s tent. As it happened the water never reached as high as her tent had been, however, she may have got wet feet getting in and out.
Throughout the trip we have had a variety of unique bathroom locations, from sandy outcrops surrounded by trees, to cavelike openings up rocky cliffs. Tonight’s toilet was set up in a dry wash, with columnar lava walls, and a balanced rock backdrop. Definitely unique.
Dinner tonight, our last night, is grilled steaks, with mashed potatoes, veggies, and salad. Need I say delicious? Dessert is a little bit special. Joe is celebrating his 60th birthday, and the crew managed a wonderful dutch oven birthday cake, cooked in the ashes of the grill, and complete with chocolate frosting and candles. We all sang happy birthday to Joe, very off key, but I’m sure he didn’t care. After cake, in the dark, we had our “disorientation” talk of what to expect tomorrow, etc. We had already organized the collection of a gratuity, which was presented to the crew. I hope they felt we treated them as well as they had us. Then several of us shared stories and anecdotes regarding the trip. I think it was unanimous that it had been a great trip, in a magical place.
We eventually all trickled off to bed. That was when the Chicago group realized their beach was flooding and made the rapid exodus to higher ground, aided by MaryBeth and I on flashlight, trail-lighting duty. After they had left, we moved MaryBeth’s tent and settled down to sleep.
See more photos
In the morning I was back to my habit of being up before the coffee boiled. For the first time the whole trip I noticed a change in the water level. The little pool I had used to bathe in yesterday was now dry. As this was drop in the level not a raise I assume the river must have already gone up yesterday afternoon and had now dropped again as I would not have expected the level to drop below the already low 8000 cfs we had seen for the majority or the trip.
Breakfast this morning is Trey’s wonderful cooked to order eggs, toasted muffins, and assorted cereals.
Our last full day on the river! Back in TJ’s boat. Today starts with a peaceful, if a little cool, cruise down through 20 miles of canyon from Deer Creek to Havasu Canyon. Time to reflect on the river and its canyon. It’s easy to believe that the river has not even noticed our passing. My passing through however, has made me realize that for every balanced rock that looks ready to drop any second there have been years, centuries, or perhaps millennia of seconds at which it could have dropped. In a hundred years people will likely still see those same rocks and expect they could fall any second. The canyon is timeless. Life has slowed to river pace for me in the past 5 days, but that has been a mere blink of an eye for this river. For every artificial power producing, water and silt retaining dam we could create in the path of this river, it has surpassed, surmounted, or carved it’s way around greater natural blockages and dams in the millions of years of it’s existence. This natural wonder should be preserved for our future generations, but in it’s grand scheme our 200 year life expectancy dams, or anything else we create, we will have little long term affect on the river and it’s canyons. It was here before man walked the earth, if we destroy it, we are only continuing down a path that ultimately destroys ourselves, and it will recover without us when we’re gone.
We landed at Havasu Canyon. A rather precarious landing, with water pouring into our motor well and the raft bouncing choppily at it’s mooring at the upriver end of around 5 boats already tied in the rapid. Trey’s raft pulled in further downriver in a newly vacated spot. The Hatch, GCE, and Canyoneer’s (snowflake) rafts were already there when we tied up. Lindsey hardly even got a chance to talk to Travis before leading us into Havasu Canyon, heading for a swimming hole where we can all enjoy the cool water for a while. The scramble over rocks, through the creek twice and over the debris pile of tree trunks was well worth it to swim below the falls. Many of the group jumped from the rocks above the falls, others just hung out in the cool spray and water. No-one was ready for the hour to be over and have to get back to the rafts for lunch.
During our absence there was much activity at the rapids. A raft coming downstream had flipped, another already tied up had popped out of the water and landed up on the ledges. Fortunately neither of our rafts was involved and no-one on the other rafts was hurt. By the time we all scrambled down the rocks our own two rafts were all that remained, firmly tied to shore. For the next several miles until our lunch stop several pieces of raft debris, including a lettuce and a Coors Light were recovered from the river. Lunch was on a small beach on river right, opposite another group from Grand Canyon Expeditions on a similar shaded beach. They were almost finished when we pulled up, and as our shade increased, theirs was decreasing. They soon moved on. Lunch was chicken salad sandwiches. Delicious as usual. Back on the river again there are not many rapids in this section. I was looking forward to the next change of scenery which would be the introduction of volcanic rocks, and our final big rapid at Lava Falls. We also got our best view of a Bighorn sheep taking his own lunch at the water’s edge on a small grassy beach.
Vulcan’s Anvil is believed to be either the volcanic neck; the core left behind where a volcanohas eroded away, or the plug of a volcano when was ejected in an eruption. I prefer the neck theory myself. Not sure exactly why, but it seems easier to believe that a volcano could have been here once and that the river was then capable of wearing away 360 degrees of softer rock hillside, than a several hundred foot long piece of lava shooting through the air and landing unright exactly in the path of a river. Totally non-scientific reasoning! As we passed Vulcan’s anvil we were told to prepare for the biggest rapids of our trip: Lava Falls, the fastest 8 seconds of navigable white water anywhere. I had totally lost any trepidation I originally had for rapids at this point and was quick to volunteer to ride the duffle pile, face first and flat on the belly, through Lava Falls. One other passenger also wanted to enjoy that ride. Julie donned her raingear and attempted to make herself waterproof, while I chose to go down without extra gear. It was fairly late in the afternoon, the sun was hot, and I knew we would be stopping for the night fairly soon anyway, so I wasn’t too concerned about getting wet. Everyone added or removed gear to suit their choice, checked the security of the day bags, etc. and Julie and I rearranged the duffle pile so we could position ourselves flat on top, get good handholds, and not have anything fly up to hit us hard.
When we were all ready, and hanging on tight, TJ lined us up on the rapid and we slid in. The next few seconds were some of the most exhilarating I can imagine. We slipped over the the first wave, though with quite a splash, bucked on the second wave, and then looming right in front of my face was a wall of frothey green and white water! Needless to say, it did not stay in front for more than a fraction of a second before we crashed into it and it broke over our heads and all around us. I felt myself lifted briefly up off the duffle pile and shifted left, but thanks to a good hold did not actually move too much. It was an incredible 8 seconds, if that’s all it was. I was very wet, and I think I can say I definitely do not have a problem with rapids! (at least in the hands of a skilled and competent guide). Given the chance I would have immediately turned around and done it again. Instead we satisfied ourselves with turning in the backwater below to watch Trey’s raft come through. They too had an awesome ride, though no-one rode the duffle on their raft (possibly due to the 3 children being on that raft – it is likely that it was just not mentioned to save fights over who should do it, or perhaps to save any parent from having to say no!)
After Lava, everyone celebrated with a beer. We had made it down the river, tackled rapids at low and high water (TJ commented that Lava Falls was running big by this time). We had only a few miles to continue before our stop for the last night. The Canyon landscape had changed to primarily volcanic. We passed several large volcanic chunks midriver, and started noticing the layered columnar lava flows in the canyon walls. The hexagonal columns are formed when lava of a specific viscosity and chemistry cools. The difference in column size and composition can help distinguish the different flows, which are often layered on top of each other.
Lava flows dammed the canyon several times in this area, sometimes these natural dams caused a lake 150 miles long. The river’s response to this was to cut a new channel for itself in the softer sedimentary rocks, and leave the old lava dammed channels behind.
We soon arrived at the campsite for our last night’s camp. I believe it was around mile 186 or 187. We considered a sandy ledge as a potential place for our site, but I had been concerned that the water level may rise. That concern eventually came to fruition. By the time we returned from Dinner this night the water had risen up and was lapping against some bags and the group camped there had to move to higher ground. About one hour after they moved the ledge was completely under water. At this point we also moved MaryBeth’s tent. As it happened the water never reached as high as her tent had been, however, she may have got wet feet getting in and out.
Throughout the trip we have had a variety of unique bathroom locations, from sandy outcrops surrounded by trees, to cavelike openings up rocky cliffs. Tonight’s toilet was set up in a dry wash, with columnar lava walls, and a balanced rock backdrop. Definitely unique. Dinner tonight, our last night, is grilled steaks, with mashed potatoes, veggies, and salad. Need I say delicious? Dessert is a little bit special. Joe is celebrating his 60th birthday, and the crew managed a wonderful dutch oven birthday cake, cooked in the ashes of the grill, and complete with chocolate frosting and candles. We all sang happy birthday to Joe, very off key, but I’m sure he didn’t care. After cake, in the dark, we had our “disorientation” talk of what to expect tomorrow, etc. We had already organized the collection of a gratuity, which was presented to the crew. I hope they felt we treated them as well as they had us. Then several of us shared stories and anecdotes regarding the trip. I think it was unanimous that it had been a great trip, in a magical place.
We eventually all trickled off to bed. That was when the Chicago group realized their beach was flooding and made the rapid exodus to higher ground, aided by MaryBeth and I on flashlight, trail-lighting duty. After they had left, we moved MaryBeth’s tent and settled down to sleep.
See more photos
Wednesday, June 2, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 5
Wednesday
This was the only morning that I was not already awake when the coffee boiler started! Something to do with my late night moonlight reading I think! I was up and about by the time it was boiled though. This morning we start off the day with Pancakes and Sausage. In a break from our usual schedule we also have the lunchtime sandwich bar set up to make bag lunches too. The plan is to hike to Thunder River Falls. It’s around a 4 mile hike each way, steep and strenuous. It is not a hike that is regularly undertaken from the motor trips, and even our guides have not visited in several years. Twelve of our group elect to try it. I am not sure I can make it, but decide to try anyway when I’m told that there are cool places beside Tapeats creek if it gets too much. We load our rafts as well as possible before we leave, and see several groups from other boats set off on the hike before we are finally ready to get started. They are smart. They make it up the first several hundred feet steep incline before the sun hits us. As we do finally get started we run into two more hikers who we had seen come down the final slope by flashlight after dusk last night. It turned out they were hoping to meet up with our 2 hikers who came to dinner last night, but did not expect then to be camped in the midst of our big noisy camp, so assumed that they had camped elsewhere. They had missed meeting up again this morning as Larry and Alvin had headed off up river early this morning, so now they intended to go downriver instead to Deer Creek and meet up later in the week. They were hoping to ask a passing boat for a ride downriver to save them some of the hike.
So off we set on our hike. Our price for dallying is a full sun hike all the way up the steep talus slope. At the top is a narrow loose rock trail around the canyon edge. Not exactly stable or fun, but we’re told it will wind down to the creek shortly. And it does. We cross the creek and again climb up, but this time onto a wide level plain, which is of course my excuse to twist my ankle over and fall. TJ to the rescue, picks me up, dusts me off and we continue. AS we walk on and talk more about the hike ahead I realize that while I could probably make it to the Falls, I would need a much longer rest there before returning than we will be able to take. After another couple of stumbles on that weak ankle, and the knowledge that the steepest section of climb is still ahead on the other side of the creek, I make the decision to not complete the hike. The next time we meet up with the main party waiting for us by the swift running creek I have decided to find a suitable rock and hold it down until the party completes the hike, turns back, and meets me back here. I knew I had reached my limit. At this stage, no-one forced me to stop, nor encouraged me to continue either. Everyone respected the decision to push myself as far as possible, but to accept my own limits too. I respect them all in return for their support up to my break point but their acceptance of my decision The creek was cool and shady. I have my lunch, and no desire to attempt my own way back. So I found a sunny spot a little above the trail where I can watch the trail for my party returning. The canyon was quiet and peaceful, with only the Canyon Wrens and the rushing stream to accompany me. After eating my lunch, the sunny rock became a little too hot and I moved back down to the creek and into the shade. A couple of additional parties who had set off even later (and hotter) than us passed through while I waited. I sent messages with each group that I was holding steady and doing just fine.
Pretty soon TJ reappeared. He had been to the falls and back and had set off ahead of the main group to collect me and give me a chance to walk back at my own slower pace. I guess if I had been really smart I would have sent my camera up with him so I would at least have got a photo of what I did not make it to see! We started off back down the trail. Again I stumbled several times and was glad for the decision to stop when I did. One stumble was at a particularly narrow, loose and high part of the trail. I was glad to have TJ by my side. We stopped when I needed to rest, or wanted to take a photo, and it was a fairly pleasant hike back (for me at least). We saw a large Chuckwalla lizard on a rock ledge right above the trail. Then, as we reached the final steep downhill section of the talus slope the remainder of the group caught up with us from behind. By now the rocks were extremely hot to hold onto, a necessity on the steep loose trail when you have short legs. Some of the groups passed us by, but we finally reached the level ground in the midst of the group. Back at the rafts I once again made use of the creek delta to cool off, this time fully clothed and in the water! It felt great to lay cool and wet. MaryBeth brought me a great big water bottle of fresh water to drink. Shame it wasn’t cold, but even warm was better than none! Eventually, feeling refreshed and wet we loaded the last gear onto the rafts and set off downstream.
Today would be a really short river day. We were headed only around 3 miles downriver to Deer Creek, taking the hitch hiking hikers with us. At mile 135, in the narrowest part of the river the raft were set to drift and anyone who wanted took a cooling river swim. The guides did everyone proud with their multiple twisting, flips and jumps into the water.
The hikers were dropped on river right while we claimed the campsite on river left. During this time, another boat pulled up, the white ‘snowflake’ Canyoneer’s raft. The swamper on this boat is Travis, the boyfriend of our swamper Lindsey. A short stop is made for the two to share a quick personal moment and for introductions between the 2 crews. Snowflake then moved on downriver. This was to be a source of amusement for us all at Lindsey and Travis’ expense for the next couple of days every time the 2 rafts were within shouting distance. Having claimed the beach with the rudiments of camp setup we ferried back across the river to Deer Creek falls. About half of the group set off for a hike to the top of the falls and the spring beyond, but the hike involved a very narrow ledge that was not recommended for anyone with height problems, and many of us were hiked out for the day anyway. We chose to just sit in the cool canyon by the side of the 1000’ waterfall.
After a while beside the waterfall the twisted ankles and knees from the hike began to bother me and I begged a ride back across the river for painkillers. I had the beach all to myself so I took a relaxing bath, set up my bed, then helped Lindsey prepare dinner veggies as the rest of the group were brought home from Deer Creek and settled themselves for the evening. There was a pleasant surprise for a lucky few on their return. The river water that had been sitting in the wash buckets was much warmer after 3 hours of sitting and was offered upto anyone who wanted it for washing. MaryBeth took advantage to have a warm hairwash for the first time this week.
Dinner tonight is chicken fajitas, dessert is fruit salad and MnMs. The full moon never made it over the rim of the canyon at this site. It was an early night and a dark and restful night’s sleep.
See more photos
This was the only morning that I was not already awake when the coffee boiler started! Something to do with my late night moonlight reading I think! I was up and about by the time it was boiled though. This morning we start off the day with Pancakes and Sausage. In a break from our usual schedule we also have the lunchtime sandwich bar set up to make bag lunches too. The plan is to hike to Thunder River Falls. It’s around a 4 mile hike each way, steep and strenuous. It is not a hike that is regularly undertaken from the motor trips, and even our guides have not visited in several years. Twelve of our group elect to try it. I am not sure I can make it, but decide to try anyway when I’m told that there are cool places beside Tapeats creek if it gets too much. We load our rafts as well as possible before we leave, and see several groups from other boats set off on the hike before we are finally ready to get started. They are smart. They make it up the first several hundred feet steep incline before the sun hits us. As we do finally get started we run into two more hikers who we had seen come down the final slope by flashlight after dusk last night. It turned out they were hoping to meet up with our 2 hikers who came to dinner last night, but did not expect then to be camped in the midst of our big noisy camp, so assumed that they had camped elsewhere. They had missed meeting up again this morning as Larry and Alvin had headed off up river early this morning, so now they intended to go downriver instead to Deer Creek and meet up later in the week. They were hoping to ask a passing boat for a ride downriver to save them some of the hike.
So off we set on our hike. Our price for dallying is a full sun hike all the way up the steep talus slope. At the top is a narrow loose rock trail around the canyon edge. Not exactly stable or fun, but we’re told it will wind down to the creek shortly. And it does. We cross the creek and again climb up, but this time onto a wide level plain, which is of course my excuse to twist my ankle over and fall. TJ to the rescue, picks me up, dusts me off and we continue. AS we walk on and talk more about the hike ahead I realize that while I could probably make it to the Falls, I would need a much longer rest there before returning than we will be able to take. After another couple of stumbles on that weak ankle, and the knowledge that the steepest section of climb is still ahead on the other side of the creek, I make the decision to not complete the hike. The next time we meet up with the main party waiting for us by the swift running creek I have decided to find a suitable rock and hold it down until the party completes the hike, turns back, and meets me back here. I knew I had reached my limit. At this stage, no-one forced me to stop, nor encouraged me to continue either. Everyone respected the decision to push myself as far as possible, but to accept my own limits too. I respect them all in return for their support up to my break point but their acceptance of my decision The creek was cool and shady. I have my lunch, and no desire to attempt my own way back. So I found a sunny spot a little above the trail where I can watch the trail for my party returning. The canyon was quiet and peaceful, with only the Canyon Wrens and the rushing stream to accompany me. After eating my lunch, the sunny rock became a little too hot and I moved back down to the creek and into the shade. A couple of additional parties who had set off even later (and hotter) than us passed through while I waited. I sent messages with each group that I was holding steady and doing just fine.
Pretty soon TJ reappeared. He had been to the falls and back and had set off ahead of the main group to collect me and give me a chance to walk back at my own slower pace. I guess if I had been really smart I would have sent my camera up with him so I would at least have got a photo of what I did not make it to see! We started off back down the trail. Again I stumbled several times and was glad for the decision to stop when I did. One stumble was at a particularly narrow, loose and high part of the trail. I was glad to have TJ by my side. We stopped when I needed to rest, or wanted to take a photo, and it was a fairly pleasant hike back (for me at least). We saw a large Chuckwalla lizard on a rock ledge right above the trail. Then, as we reached the final steep downhill section of the talus slope the remainder of the group caught up with us from behind. By now the rocks were extremely hot to hold onto, a necessity on the steep loose trail when you have short legs. Some of the groups passed us by, but we finally reached the level ground in the midst of the group. Back at the rafts I once again made use of the creek delta to cool off, this time fully clothed and in the water! It felt great to lay cool and wet. MaryBeth brought me a great big water bottle of fresh water to drink. Shame it wasn’t cold, but even warm was better than none! Eventually, feeling refreshed and wet we loaded the last gear onto the rafts and set off downstream.
Today would be a really short river day. We were headed only around 3 miles downriver to Deer Creek, taking the hitch hiking hikers with us. At mile 135, in the narrowest part of the river the raft were set to drift and anyone who wanted took a cooling river swim. The guides did everyone proud with their multiple twisting, flips and jumps into the water.
The hikers were dropped on river right while we claimed the campsite on river left. During this time, another boat pulled up, the white ‘snowflake’ Canyoneer’s raft. The swamper on this boat is Travis, the boyfriend of our swamper Lindsey. A short stop is made for the two to share a quick personal moment and for introductions between the 2 crews. Snowflake then moved on downriver. This was to be a source of amusement for us all at Lindsey and Travis’ expense for the next couple of days every time the 2 rafts were within shouting distance. Having claimed the beach with the rudiments of camp setup we ferried back across the river to Deer Creek falls. About half of the group set off for a hike to the top of the falls and the spring beyond, but the hike involved a very narrow ledge that was not recommended for anyone with height problems, and many of us were hiked out for the day anyway. We chose to just sit in the cool canyon by the side of the 1000’ waterfall.
After a while beside the waterfall the twisted ankles and knees from the hike began to bother me and I begged a ride back across the river for painkillers. I had the beach all to myself so I took a relaxing bath, set up my bed, then helped Lindsey prepare dinner veggies as the rest of the group were brought home from Deer Creek and settled themselves for the evening. There was a pleasant surprise for a lucky few on their return. The river water that had been sitting in the wash buckets was much warmer after 3 hours of sitting and was offered upto anyone who wanted it for washing. MaryBeth took advantage to have a warm hairwash for the first time this week.
Dinner tonight is chicken fajitas, dessert is fruit salad and MnMs. The full moon never made it over the rim of the canyon at this site. It was an early night and a dark and restful night’s sleep.
See more photos
Tuesday, June 1, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 4
Tuesday
This morning we start the day with a little light cloud cover, and a great breakfast of ‘fill your own” omelets, expertly cooked by Trey. I thoroughly enjoyed my first, and attempted a second, but was unable to do it true justice. I am back on Trey’s raft this morning and the rapids came big and frequent. It was good riding all morning and I was really getting into this rapids stuff. I even rode one, I believe it was Serpentine, laying flat on my belly on the top of the duffle pile. The view is fantastic from there, as you seem to head face first into the standing waves at the bottom of the rapid. It is also rather wet. An exhilarating ride, and I believe I have lost my fear of rapids! Above Bass Rapids we saw the ‘Ross Wheeler’, built by Bert Loper stranded high on the rocks. Shortly after Bass Rapid the rafts pulled in at Shinumo Creek for a short walk up the creek to Shinumo Falls where we all played in and under the falls to cool off.
Somewhere around Garnet creek we stopped for lunch on another very hot beach. Lunch was the ever popular and good sandwich bar, made even better with the addition of soft and slightly melted chocolate chip cookies. They were delicious, but rather hard to prevent from crumbing! The landing point here had a rock ledge about a foot below the water level at the beach. This made a perfect place for cooling and splashing after lunch, and very quickly a water fight broke out between the kids (and some of the not so small kids too!) After lunch we visited Elves Chasm where everyone again had a good splash around in the waterfall; this time jumping down into the pool below the falls. Great activity on a hot afternoon.
After cooling off at Elves Chasm we continued downriver through Conquistador Aisle and into the Middle Granite Gorge. As we entered Middle Granite Gorge and were back into the harder rock and the stronger rapids the campgrounds also became fewer, and they all seemed to be full. I’m sure we passed both the Hatch and GCE rafts we had been traveling downriver with, and a couple of other groups too. We had some exciting rides down Specter, Bedrock and Deubendorf rapids. I think it was at Bedrock that TJ’s motor lost or bent a propeller ( I was on the other raft). It was quickly fixed, and we continued to move down river looking for a place to spend the night. It had been a long day of around 40 river miles. We also passed several oar trips who were also seeking night stops.
At Tapeats Creek we pulled into the upriver campground only to find a single tent with 2 hikers camping. Lucky for us they were happy to share their beach in exchange for a proper cooked meal and a cold beer. We quickly moved in with them and started campsite hunting. The creek has two good size camping areas, one on either side of the fast flowing and cold creek. The upriver side really only had 3 or 4 suitable areas that were not either already taken up by the hikers, or involve cutting through their camp to get to. Our group ended splitting up with some wading through the creek to find their spot for the night. MaryBeth and I preferred to be on the dry side with the kitchen and toilet. A couple of other tenters also chose the dry side rather than have to cross the fast flowing creek in the night. A rope was strung across the creek to assist those who camped on the other side. At some stage during the evening someone reported seeing a rattlesnake at the point where the trail crossed the creek, but it either did not want to hang around with all our activity, or was just passing through as it was not seen again.
On the left you can see my bed space up against the canyon wall. MaryBeth and I had to split up our camp for tonight. She didn’t like my lovely spot by the wall because there were lizards scampering all over the rock wall, and I could not find space near her tent without being in a walkway. Needless to say, we survived the night apart. The hikers, Larry and Alvin, did indeed join us for dinner, and were extremely grateful for the delicious grilled pork chops, apple sauce, beans and squash, with hot dutch oven brownies for dessert. They would have been eating navy bean soup if we had not camped on their beach. Now they were not only eating a great meal but they would be able to double up on rations another night too. They had hiked down from the north rim 2 days before, stopping at the upper Tapeats campground for a night on the way. They were photographing waterfalls and rapids and had a lot of heavy photography equipment with them and had packed very light on the food rations to save weight.
Tonight was the night of the full moon. It was a very warm night. The hot breeze felt like it was coming straight from an oven. My spot by the wall, with the radiant heat releasing from the rock turned out to be very hot in the night. The lizards running across the rock kept spattering sand on me. The moon was as bright as daylight. I was awake anyway, so I moved out into the creek delta and took up a place on a rock to enjoy the cool air. The full moon light was bright enough to read by, and I sat out enjoying the cool and the quiet for what felt like several hours until the moon went down behind the opposite canyon edge over Great Thumb Mesa. Finally, now in the dark, I returned to my bed and managed to drift off to sleep.
See more photos
This morning we start the day with a little light cloud cover, and a great breakfast of ‘fill your own” omelets, expertly cooked by Trey. I thoroughly enjoyed my first, and attempted a second, but was unable to do it true justice. I am back on Trey’s raft this morning and the rapids came big and frequent. It was good riding all morning and I was really getting into this rapids stuff. I even rode one, I believe it was Serpentine, laying flat on my belly on the top of the duffle pile. The view is fantastic from there, as you seem to head face first into the standing waves at the bottom of the rapid. It is also rather wet. An exhilarating ride, and I believe I have lost my fear of rapids! Above Bass Rapids we saw the ‘Ross Wheeler’, built by Bert Loper stranded high on the rocks. Shortly after Bass Rapid the rafts pulled in at Shinumo Creek for a short walk up the creek to Shinumo Falls where we all played in and under the falls to cool off.
Somewhere around Garnet creek we stopped for lunch on another very hot beach. Lunch was the ever popular and good sandwich bar, made even better with the addition of soft and slightly melted chocolate chip cookies. They were delicious, but rather hard to prevent from crumbing! The landing point here had a rock ledge about a foot below the water level at the beach. This made a perfect place for cooling and splashing after lunch, and very quickly a water fight broke out between the kids (and some of the not so small kids too!) After lunch we visited Elves Chasm where everyone again had a good splash around in the waterfall; this time jumping down into the pool below the falls. Great activity on a hot afternoon.
After cooling off at Elves Chasm we continued downriver through Conquistador Aisle and into the Middle Granite Gorge. As we entered Middle Granite Gorge and were back into the harder rock and the stronger rapids the campgrounds also became fewer, and they all seemed to be full. I’m sure we passed both the Hatch and GCE rafts we had been traveling downriver with, and a couple of other groups too. We had some exciting rides down Specter, Bedrock and Deubendorf rapids. I think it was at Bedrock that TJ’s motor lost or bent a propeller ( I was on the other raft). It was quickly fixed, and we continued to move down river looking for a place to spend the night. It had been a long day of around 40 river miles. We also passed several oar trips who were also seeking night stops.
At Tapeats Creek we pulled into the upriver campground only to find a single tent with 2 hikers camping. Lucky for us they were happy to share their beach in exchange for a proper cooked meal and a cold beer. We quickly moved in with them and started campsite hunting. The creek has two good size camping areas, one on either side of the fast flowing and cold creek. The upriver side really only had 3 or 4 suitable areas that were not either already taken up by the hikers, or involve cutting through their camp to get to. Our group ended splitting up with some wading through the creek to find their spot for the night. MaryBeth and I preferred to be on the dry side with the kitchen and toilet. A couple of other tenters also chose the dry side rather than have to cross the fast flowing creek in the night. A rope was strung across the creek to assist those who camped on the other side. At some stage during the evening someone reported seeing a rattlesnake at the point where the trail crossed the creek, but it either did not want to hang around with all our activity, or was just passing through as it was not seen again.
On the left you can see my bed space up against the canyon wall. MaryBeth and I had to split up our camp for tonight. She didn’t like my lovely spot by the wall because there were lizards scampering all over the rock wall, and I could not find space near her tent without being in a walkway. Needless to say, we survived the night apart. The hikers, Larry and Alvin, did indeed join us for dinner, and were extremely grateful for the delicious grilled pork chops, apple sauce, beans and squash, with hot dutch oven brownies for dessert. They would have been eating navy bean soup if we had not camped on their beach. Now they were not only eating a great meal but they would be able to double up on rations another night too. They had hiked down from the north rim 2 days before, stopping at the upper Tapeats campground for a night on the way. They were photographing waterfalls and rapids and had a lot of heavy photography equipment with them and had packed very light on the food rations to save weight. Tonight was the night of the full moon. It was a very warm night. The hot breeze felt like it was coming straight from an oven. My spot by the wall, with the radiant heat releasing from the rock turned out to be very hot in the night. The lizards running across the rock kept spattering sand on me. The moon was as bright as daylight. I was awake anyway, so I moved out into the creek delta and took up a place on a rock to enjoy the cool air. The full moon light was bright enough to read by, and I sat out enjoying the cool and the quiet for what felt like several hours until the moon went down behind the opposite canyon edge over Great Thumb Mesa. Finally, now in the dark, I returned to my bed and managed to drift off to sleep.
See more photos
Monday, May 31, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 3
Monday
Up again before the coffee, after a great night’s sleep under the stars. Breakfast this morning is pancakes, bacon, strawberries and cream, and I’m beginning to feel a little spoiled! Realizing that today is Memorial Day we try to get up some enthusiasm for a parade. We would eventually be overruled by a less than enthusiastic crowd at the end of the long tiring day, but we had some fun over breakfast imagining all the different ‘parade-like’ uses to which you could put a metal/canvas folding chair! This morning I’m back on TJ’s boat. Today we will visit the Little Colorado River.
This is a highlight of the trip I have been waiting for. I have heard that the LCR is very clear when it has had no rain, but can be very muddy after a storm. I was not disappointed. The river is running crystal clear and turquoise blue under a deep blue sky. I could not have asked for it to be more perfect.
The hike up the river was short, and I actually managed not to fall. Lucky me as it was solid sharp rock all the way! A short way up the river is a small rapid through some travertine covered rocks. The ‘in’ thing to do here is to travel the falls without the assistance of a boat. All that is required is some protection for the butt and spine from the sharp and bumpy rocks below, which is very easily accomplished using the life jackets but worn upside down and diaper style.
At the confluence the blue of the Little Colorado swirls into the green of the Colorado. If anything the water appears even greener, almost emerald, at this point.. The canyon widens somewhat as we travel through. These are the layers of rock that have entirely eroded away in other parts of the canyon, which causes the great unconformity. The rafts tied up at the lunch stop just above Hance Rapid, I think at Papago Creek. This was a hot beach. Lunch was Mexican Train Wreck Pitas, and extremely good. Shade was hard to find. A little further below this lunch stop the rafts were tied up again for the guides to scout Hance Rapid, which can be very tricky at the low water flows we were experiencing. As we pulled away a group of kayakers and small boats pulled in to scout too. As much as I’m enjoying the rapid rides now, I’m not sure I could ever do it in a kayak.
Below Hance rapid we enter the Upper Granite Gorge. The sandstones we have been traveling through the past couple of days are replaced by shiny black Vishnu Schist with intrusions of pink granite running up, down, and every possible way. This is much harder rock, and deeper water. The rapids are stronger. I even manage to get myself washed into to boat going through the fairly small 83 mile rapid. Fortunately I had a good inside hold, and I did fall inwards. That was a valuable lesson to learn! Pretty soon we come to Phantom Ranch, and the 2 foot bridges crossing the river. We stop to stock up with fresh water.
We finished off the river day by running Horn Creek Rapid. This was our first (to our knowledge anyway) not quite perfect ride through a rapid. TJ’s raft, in the lead, made it through fine, though he did finally get himself as wet as he had been getting us all day! Trey’s raft appeared to come through on the same line, but the wave totally engulfed and swamped his motor well and the engine stalled. We in the lower boat could see something was wrong as his life jacket ducked and bobbed as he frantically tried to restart his motor. Unfortunately he was unable to restart it in time to stop the boat hitting the canyon wall rather hard at the bottom. The good news is that everyone came out of it unhurt, and soon after that it did start. We stopped for the night at Trinity canyon very soon after that. I think everyone was a little shook up. We couldn’t raise the previous enthusiasm for the parade anyway!
Dinner tonight was delicious as usual: stir fry veggies and beef, with pound cake strawberry shortcakes for dessert. This was a another great campground, though a little rocky in places. The toilet though was placed in a small cave like opening about 20 feet above the river elevation. A great spot for the view, but rather awkward to climb up to and down from with a flashlight and boat cushion in hand. I confess after a trip up in the dark, and knowing how unsteady I had been on my feet, I prepared myself to hold off on another trip until full daylight the next day.
See more photos
Up again before the coffee, after a great night’s sleep under the stars. Breakfast this morning is pancakes, bacon, strawberries and cream, and I’m beginning to feel a little spoiled! Realizing that today is Memorial Day we try to get up some enthusiasm for a parade. We would eventually be overruled by a less than enthusiastic crowd at the end of the long tiring day, but we had some fun over breakfast imagining all the different ‘parade-like’ uses to which you could put a metal/canvas folding chair! This morning I’m back on TJ’s boat. Today we will visit the Little Colorado River.
This is a highlight of the trip I have been waiting for. I have heard that the LCR is very clear when it has had no rain, but can be very muddy after a storm. I was not disappointed. The river is running crystal clear and turquoise blue under a deep blue sky. I could not have asked for it to be more perfect.
The hike up the river was short, and I actually managed not to fall. Lucky me as it was solid sharp rock all the way! A short way up the river is a small rapid through some travertine covered rocks. The ‘in’ thing to do here is to travel the falls without the assistance of a boat. All that is required is some protection for the butt and spine from the sharp and bumpy rocks below, which is very easily accomplished using the life jackets but worn upside down and diaper style.
At the confluence the blue of the Little Colorado swirls into the green of the Colorado. If anything the water appears even greener, almost emerald, at this point.. The canyon widens somewhat as we travel through. These are the layers of rock that have entirely eroded away in other parts of the canyon, which causes the great unconformity. The rafts tied up at the lunch stop just above Hance Rapid, I think at Papago Creek. This was a hot beach. Lunch was Mexican Train Wreck Pitas, and extremely good. Shade was hard to find. A little further below this lunch stop the rafts were tied up again for the guides to scout Hance Rapid, which can be very tricky at the low water flows we were experiencing. As we pulled away a group of kayakers and small boats pulled in to scout too. As much as I’m enjoying the rapid rides now, I’m not sure I could ever do it in a kayak.
Below Hance rapid we enter the Upper Granite Gorge. The sandstones we have been traveling through the past couple of days are replaced by shiny black Vishnu Schist with intrusions of pink granite running up, down, and every possible way. This is much harder rock, and deeper water. The rapids are stronger. I even manage to get myself washed into to boat going through the fairly small 83 mile rapid. Fortunately I had a good inside hold, and I did fall inwards. That was a valuable lesson to learn! Pretty soon we come to Phantom Ranch, and the 2 foot bridges crossing the river. We stop to stock up with fresh water.
We finished off the river day by running Horn Creek Rapid. This was our first (to our knowledge anyway) not quite perfect ride through a rapid. TJ’s raft, in the lead, made it through fine, though he did finally get himself as wet as he had been getting us all day! Trey’s raft appeared to come through on the same line, but the wave totally engulfed and swamped his motor well and the engine stalled. We in the lower boat could see something was wrong as his life jacket ducked and bobbed as he frantically tried to restart his motor. Unfortunately he was unable to restart it in time to stop the boat hitting the canyon wall rather hard at the bottom. The good news is that everyone came out of it unhurt, and soon after that it did start. We stopped for the night at Trinity canyon very soon after that. I think everyone was a little shook up. We couldn’t raise the previous enthusiasm for the parade anyway!
Dinner tonight was delicious as usual: stir fry veggies and beef, with pound cake strawberry shortcakes for dessert. This was a another great campground, though a little rocky in places. The toilet though was placed in a small cave like opening about 20 feet above the river elevation. A great spot for the view, but rather awkward to climb up to and down from with a flashlight and boat cushion in hand. I confess after a trip up in the dark, and knowing how unsteady I had been on my feet, I prepared myself to hold off on another trip until full daylight the next day.
See more photos
Sunday, May 30, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 2
Sunday
The morning started very early, I was up before the coffee brewed. I assumed that was the same time zone change that had me up before 3am the previous morning. It really didn’t matter what time zone I was in here. It was getting light, so I got up and around and started reorganizing and repacking bags. By the time the coffee and breakfast were ready most were up and around, and getting bags ready. The previous day’s cold breeze had died down somewhat, but it was still a cool morning. Breakfast this morning was eggs and hash brown potatoes, with coffee and juice. It was delicious and very welcome. I decide to switch boats this morning, and set out on Trey’s boat. I’m glad I did, because as we pulled away from the beach he mentioned that he had lost his sweatshirt to the river in the breeze the previous night. As it happened we had found a sweatshirt the previous night in the river, and not knowing who it belonged to had left it on a rock assuming that the owner would find it. We had since forgotten about it, and obviously, Trey had not seen it and reclaimed it. We took a quick trip back to the beach to reclaim the sodden garment. It was none the worse for wear, and spread out on top of the boat box was dry by lunchtime. Trey was very happy to have recovered it!
First stop this morning, though not actually disembarking from the boat, was a short float downriver from our campsite to look at Stanton’s Cave, and Vasey’s paradise. We saw our first Bighorn sheep at Vasey’s, but my pictures didn’t come out well. A little further downriver was our first actual stop of the day at Redwall Cavern.
Downriver from Redwall Cavern we passed the Bridge of Sighs. It was somewhere along this section of the river that I realized how much time had slowed down for me. Not only had my body naturally accepted ‘sleep in the dark, wake in the daylight’, but I also realized that today, at this rate we would likely travel in a whole day about the same distance I usually commute to work. It’s hard to put the feeling into words to someone who has never experienced the Canyon, the closest analogy I can come with is ‘stop and smell the roses’, but in this case it was not the sense of smell, but that of sight that was highly enabled. Every second on the water the view changed. There was always something new and beautiful to look at, and it was hard to know where to look next. The rafts, traveling at about double the speed of the river current, made the scenery move constantly. The pace was slow enough to appreciate the changing vistas, and fast enough to keep me anticipating every bend in the river and the new vistas to be revealed.. I spent a lot of time trying to compare the levels of each rock level on the two sides on the canyon (mostly unsuccessfully). It seemed like the levels were pushed up higher on the north side than the south. The motion of the boat however was too relaxing for me to get too excited about any personal scientific or geological discoveries.
We floated lazily down the deeper slower parts of the river. Trey showed us the proposed site of the Marble Canyon Dam that would have flooded the area upstream of us. I think we all agreed that this river is a treasure. It would be a travesty to ever drown and destroy where it now runs free.As we continued downriver towards President Harding Rapid we saw two mule deer at the water’s edge, and a little further downriver, but high up on a rock ledge, the remains of a 700 year old wooden bridge built by the Anasazi Indians which was on their seasonal trail from rim to river. I would not want to have crossed it myself, but it is a testament to the dry atmosphere here in the canyon that this centuries old wood survives. We passed our first other raft in this stretch too: A single Hatch boat that appeared to be a fishing trip. We were to tag with them all the way down to Whitmore wash.
Next we stopped at Saddle Canyon for our first hike. First was a very cold plunge into the river to cool off and get wet to help keep cool on the hike. Despite knowing how cold it was, and having taken a bath in the water the previous night, I was still shocked at how cold the water felt. I kept my life jacket and shoes on to get in the water, and though only 3 or 4 feet from the shore, was gasping for breath once totally immersed, and almost felt I could not make it back those few small feet. I understand now how people succumb to hypothermia so quickly. The initial part of the hike was a steep incline. Several of the party turned back before reaching the top of the slope. Once at the top, the hike was level and mainly shaded and the hike very pleasant. My problem was not so much on the slope, though that did wear me a lot as my short legs had a hard time over rocks requiring high knee lifting! I made it to the top, but had most trouble on the flat sandy areas. Trey was the first to have to suffer my falls. I went down hard when my right ankle turned under me. From that point on I was very cautious on that leg, and stumbled almost every time I had to put my weight on the right ankle. The other challenge for me was a scramble over a large sloped boulder, with a gap which had to be traversed at the top, over onto another rock. It was tough enough on the uphill crossing, but much worse on the way back down due to the downhill slope of the rock, the precipice below and the lack of handholds. On the way down TJ managed to coax me over after a few false starts. Between Trey, TJ, Matt & Mark (two very sweet, and strong, fellow travelers) I managed the mile and a quarter out to the falls, and then again back. Many thanks to them for the steady hand grips, pulls from the front, and shoves from the rear when needed, and particularly for the encouragement to continue and for picking me up and dusting me off after many falls.
It was all worth it though, at the end of the hike is a beautiful clear waterfall.
When we returned from the hike the lunch tables were set up for ‘make your own’ sandwiches again. I took another cooling river dunk before enjoying the sandwiches even more today than yesterday. A Grand Canyon Expeditions raft had also pulled in while we were hiking. We would be seeing them several times on this trip too. After lunch, as we continued downstream I was hoping that we would be able to stop at Nankoweap and hike up to the granaries. However, when we arrived the campgrounds were taken, and there was no place to park our rafts. The Hatch boat we had passed earlier must have passed us when we were hiking, as they were parked here. We continued downriver to Kwagunt Canyon for tonight’s camp.
It may have been a blessing not to be able to stop at Nankoweap. I think I had about out hiked myself, and I thoroughly enjoyed the early stop. There was plenty of time to relax before dinner. The weather was much more pleasant than the previous night; the breeze warm and gentle. Dinner tonight was Barbeque Chicken, Stove Top stuffing, green beans and carrots, and rolls, with cheesecake for dessert. Delicious!
See more photos
The morning started very early, I was up before the coffee brewed. I assumed that was the same time zone change that had me up before 3am the previous morning. It really didn’t matter what time zone I was in here. It was getting light, so I got up and around and started reorganizing and repacking bags. By the time the coffee and breakfast were ready most were up and around, and getting bags ready. The previous day’s cold breeze had died down somewhat, but it was still a cool morning. Breakfast this morning was eggs and hash brown potatoes, with coffee and juice. It was delicious and very welcome. I decide to switch boats this morning, and set out on Trey’s boat. I’m glad I did, because as we pulled away from the beach he mentioned that he had lost his sweatshirt to the river in the breeze the previous night. As it happened we had found a sweatshirt the previous night in the river, and not knowing who it belonged to had left it on a rock assuming that the owner would find it. We had since forgotten about it, and obviously, Trey had not seen it and reclaimed it. We took a quick trip back to the beach to reclaim the sodden garment. It was none the worse for wear, and spread out on top of the boat box was dry by lunchtime. Trey was very happy to have recovered it!
First stop this morning, though not actually disembarking from the boat, was a short float downriver from our campsite to look at Stanton’s Cave, and Vasey’s paradise. We saw our first Bighorn sheep at Vasey’s, but my pictures didn’t come out well. A little further downriver was our first actual stop of the day at Redwall Cavern.
Downriver from Redwall Cavern we passed the Bridge of Sighs. It was somewhere along this section of the river that I realized how much time had slowed down for me. Not only had my body naturally accepted ‘sleep in the dark, wake in the daylight’, but I also realized that today, at this rate we would likely travel in a whole day about the same distance I usually commute to work. It’s hard to put the feeling into words to someone who has never experienced the Canyon, the closest analogy I can come with is ‘stop and smell the roses’, but in this case it was not the sense of smell, but that of sight that was highly enabled. Every second on the water the view changed. There was always something new and beautiful to look at, and it was hard to know where to look next. The rafts, traveling at about double the speed of the river current, made the scenery move constantly. The pace was slow enough to appreciate the changing vistas, and fast enough to keep me anticipating every bend in the river and the new vistas to be revealed.. I spent a lot of time trying to compare the levels of each rock level on the two sides on the canyon (mostly unsuccessfully). It seemed like the levels were pushed up higher on the north side than the south. The motion of the boat however was too relaxing for me to get too excited about any personal scientific or geological discoveries.
We floated lazily down the deeper slower parts of the river. Trey showed us the proposed site of the Marble Canyon Dam that would have flooded the area upstream of us. I think we all agreed that this river is a treasure. It would be a travesty to ever drown and destroy where it now runs free.As we continued downriver towards President Harding Rapid we saw two mule deer at the water’s edge, and a little further downriver, but high up on a rock ledge, the remains of a 700 year old wooden bridge built by the Anasazi Indians which was on their seasonal trail from rim to river. I would not want to have crossed it myself, but it is a testament to the dry atmosphere here in the canyon that this centuries old wood survives. We passed our first other raft in this stretch too: A single Hatch boat that appeared to be a fishing trip. We were to tag with them all the way down to Whitmore wash.
Next we stopped at Saddle Canyon for our first hike. First was a very cold plunge into the river to cool off and get wet to help keep cool on the hike. Despite knowing how cold it was, and having taken a bath in the water the previous night, I was still shocked at how cold the water felt. I kept my life jacket and shoes on to get in the water, and though only 3 or 4 feet from the shore, was gasping for breath once totally immersed, and almost felt I could not make it back those few small feet. I understand now how people succumb to hypothermia so quickly. The initial part of the hike was a steep incline. Several of the party turned back before reaching the top of the slope. Once at the top, the hike was level and mainly shaded and the hike very pleasant. My problem was not so much on the slope, though that did wear me a lot as my short legs had a hard time over rocks requiring high knee lifting! I made it to the top, but had most trouble on the flat sandy areas. Trey was the first to have to suffer my falls. I went down hard when my right ankle turned under me. From that point on I was very cautious on that leg, and stumbled almost every time I had to put my weight on the right ankle. The other challenge for me was a scramble over a large sloped boulder, with a gap which had to be traversed at the top, over onto another rock. It was tough enough on the uphill crossing, but much worse on the way back down due to the downhill slope of the rock, the precipice below and the lack of handholds. On the way down TJ managed to coax me over after a few false starts. Between Trey, TJ, Matt & Mark (two very sweet, and strong, fellow travelers) I managed the mile and a quarter out to the falls, and then again back. Many thanks to them for the steady hand grips, pulls from the front, and shoves from the rear when needed, and particularly for the encouragement to continue and for picking me up and dusting me off after many falls.
It was all worth it though, at the end of the hike is a beautiful clear waterfall.
When we returned from the hike the lunch tables were set up for ‘make your own’ sandwiches again. I took another cooling river dunk before enjoying the sandwiches even more today than yesterday. A Grand Canyon Expeditions raft had also pulled in while we were hiking. We would be seeing them several times on this trip too. After lunch, as we continued downstream I was hoping that we would be able to stop at Nankoweap and hike up to the granaries. However, when we arrived the campgrounds were taken, and there was no place to park our rafts. The Hatch boat we had passed earlier must have passed us when we were hiking, as they were parked here. We continued downriver to Kwagunt Canyon for tonight’s camp.
It may have been a blessing not to be able to stop at Nankoweap. I think I had about out hiked myself, and I thoroughly enjoyed the early stop. There was plenty of time to relax before dinner. The weather was much more pleasant than the previous night; the breeze warm and gentle. Dinner tonight was Barbeque Chicken, Stove Top stuffing, green beans and carrots, and rolls, with cheesecake for dessert. Delicious!
See more photos
Saturday, May 29, 2004
Grand Canyon Rafting - Day 1
Saturday
Early this morning we were awake and raring to go. We rechecked the bags, dug into the complimentary doughnuts, juice, and coffee. The other guests who would be our companions for the trip trickled into the lobby shortly afterwards. The bus soon arrived to transport us to the north Las Vegas airport, where we were checked in, bags weighed, and we were assigned seats for the plane ride to Marble Canyon.
The flight was interesting, the skies rather cloudy and windy. I did not get any pictures due to a bad setting on my camera (fortunately this problem was quickly discovered on landing). I managed to follow our course over Lake Mead and the Kaibab plateau using the AZ road map. The weather disintegrated as we passed over SR89A and House Rock, and, concentrating on the bouncing of the plane and looking southwards for the first glimpse of the river I did not anticipate the descent over the north canyon rim. It was a spectacular plunge, with the red canyon wall suddenly appearing on the north side of the plane making almost everyone gasp with surprise. Soon the river appeared briefly through a side canyon, then the patched blacktop airstrip was in sight and we were landing. I was rather glad that the bumpy flight was over, and very glad that Mark had not been with me: He would not have enjoyed that flight!
We were met at the plane by three cute looking, early twenties, ‘kids’ who we immediately assumed to be ground helpers, to see us through our repacking, breakfast, transfer to the river, etc. We soon found out that they were all that and more. The three, 1st boat guide and trip leader, Trey, 2nd boat guide, and Lindsey, swamper. No grizzly old boat guys for us! I confess that at first I was a little concerned about the driving experience that these three young people could have. I had been determined to get down in the Grand Canyon since my last trip to Vegas about 18 months ago. Doing research, I had decided that the best way to see it all would have to be by boat, but was rather anxious about the rapids. If there had been an alternate, non rapids, mode of transport available I would certainly have taken it. I had finally decided on a motor trip due to the reputed stability of the larger boats, and the experience of the boatmen. All those concerns resurfaced when I saw this young crew. We were taken to the porch of a large house in Marble Canyon, and instructed in the art of transferring our river gear into two bags: A large bag for clothes changes, bathroom and personal gear which would be stowed away and not accessible during the day, and a smaller bag for items needed during the day. Both bags were rubber with foldover waterproof closures. Each bag set of bags was numbered. I was E6 and MaryBeth E4.
While we were finishing a quick refresher breakfast of bagels, juice, and coffee, TJ gave us an orientation to our upcoming adventure, and our bags were loaded into the vans for transport to the river. We were given a final opportunity to visit the store in Marble Canyon to purchase Beer, last minute supplies, or to walk ¼ mile to the Navajo bridge on US89 to get our first “up close” look at the river. We didn’t need beer, and had already packed away our money anyway, so we chose to walk down to the bridge. The original Navajo Bridge is now a footbridge only and a new road bridge parallels it on the downstream side. It was great to see the river up close, only around 500’ down anyway, and confirm that it was running clear and green.
As we walked back to be picked up, the first van load, with Trey and Lindsey, passed us on their way down to the river. We hurried back to the house to find TJ waiting for us and about 6 others who had chosen to shop or visit the bridge and had not yet returned. During this wait for the second van we had a chance to grill TJ about his river experience. I felt much less anxious after discovering that his father had been a river guide and he had practically grown up on the river and had over 60 trips down the Colorado.
At the river at Lee’s Ferry, more orientation, including the correct fitting of life jackets, boat safety, how to get on and off, etc.. We also received a short talk from a United States Geological Survey rep. The USGS is conducting a survey of the river, both from the air and several rafts, one of which was tied up next to our two rafts in the process of loading, and several which had already launched. Their survey will determine water depths and levels, and the content of the riverbed. The boats were equipped with specialized measuring equipment, and a small aircraft would be flying at approx 4500’ above the river between Glen Canyon Dam and Phantom Ranch for the next several days. Such low flyovers of the river and Canyon are apparently not generally allowed. We actually saw the plane several times over the course of the next few days, but it did not disturb our enjoyment of the canyon.
As well as the special flyover permission the USGS had also arranged to have the water release from Glen Canyon Dam held at a steady 8000 cubic feet per second (cfs). This would mean that the river levels would remain steady and low for the first several days of our trip. The usual flow would have fluctuated depending on electricity demand. The flow immediately before our trip fluctuated between 7,000 and 13,000 cfs. After the talk we experience our first boat loading “duffle shuffle” which involves EVERY able bodied trip member passing personal duffels along a fire line to the boat crew who stow them on the boats. The duffle piles are then covered with an additional waterproof tarp. The pile makes a great seating for all but the roughest rapids. I was to find out fairly early in the trip that this was a great vantage point for watching the shallow river, and even later in the trip get some great rapids rides.
The main purpose for this trip, for me, was the scenery of the Grand Canyon. I was prepared to put up with the rapids of the Colorado to allow me the opportunity to see the canyon, but I was not particularly looking forward to the actual rapids experience. MaryBeth and I both took seat close to the back of the boat where the rapids experience is reputedly less intense than the frontmost seating. The boats pushed off and we started down the river. The weather was wonderful. The water was clear, and green, and very shallow. You could see the rocky bottom clearly. We passed several groups of people fishing who had climbed down from the rim only a couple of hundred feet above.
We experience our first riffles, and I actually enjoyed the cold splashes in the now hot afternoon. By the time we passed below the Navajo bridges the canyon rim had risen to almost 500’ above river level. Around mile 7 we felt raindrops from a seemingly clear sky, then a mile or so later saw virga hanging over the canyon while seeming not to fall to river level. We had already been advised, while in Marble Canyon walking from the plane to the orientation, that we should feel honored to experience any rain on the river as it is a fairly rare occurrence. We did not, however, feel particularly pleased to experience the sudden hail storm which descended on us around mile 9. Raingear was very rapidly donned by almost all of the passengers. Even the guides grabbed for sweatshirts. We shot past the rock at mile 10 without much notice. Probably most passengers were feeling, as I was, ‘What the heck have I got into – 7 days of freezing cold and rapids too?’ The guides were basically the only people facing forward, the remainder of us facing upstream, away from the onslaught of wind, rain, and hail. The guides continued as rapidly as possible downstream, obviously knowing that they could outrun such a small storm in a very short while.As soon as the storm had passed, the boats pulled up to a small beach at Soap Creek for lunch.
We all piled off the rafts and onto the beach. Rain gear and life jackets were quickly discarded. Tables and food were produced and we all enjoyed ‘make your own’ sandwiches, made and consumed without plates or napkins and with as little production and dropping of crumbs as possible. Crumbs encourage harvester ants, which are present on every beach, so every meal was taken with particular care not to leave any food droppings.
Soon enough we were fed, dry, much happier, and loading back on the rafts to continue down the river.
By mid afternoon we had passed through several small and good size rapids, and to be honest I enjoyed them much more than I expected. I even experimented with riding out on the outer raft tube, with one leg hanging out over the side of the raft, and a very securely held ‘inside hold’ which is the only way you can expect to be thrown inside the raft, not outside, if a wave hits you good in a rapid. My fear of rapids was rapidly decreasing. The Canyon is impressive. The rock layers quickly enter the canyon walls from river level at an angle. This makes it seem like you are traveling downhill much more rapidly than you actually are. As we traveled the 20s series of rapids we passed Indian Dick Rock, which apparently has nothing to do with a Native American called Richard! The wind picked up and it became cooler as we continued on down to our first camp at South Canyon (Mile 31 ½). We disembarked onto the beach, which was just upstream of, and had a fairly good view of Vasey’s Paradise.
Everyone chose a campground (ours was up a rather steep sandy incline at the back of the beach and above the kitchen), then returned for the duffle shuffle. As well as the personal gear bags we also all found our own numbered night bag which matched the day and personal bag numbers, and TJ gave us an orientation on what we would find in the night bags: ground cover, self inflating mattress pad, sleeping bag, self inflating pillow, and sheet. After a demonstration of how to use and repack the self inflating pads, and tent setup (for those who preferred to sleep in a tent) everyone went to set up their own campground and get themselves bathed and settled for the evening while the crew cooked dinner. Many chose to use the tents on this first night due to the cool, sand filled, breeze blowing down the canyon. After setting up the tents it was bathtime. There was a nice shallow rock lined cove that made a suitable bathing hole. The downside was definitely the cold water, but I figured I had better get used to it anyway. The cold breeze did not help much, but once I was dry and dressed again after bathing it really did feel good to have done it. I added my fleece sweatshirt over my shorts and t-shirt pajama combo.
Very shortly the call for dinner had everyone back in the kitchen for instruction in the dish sanitation system. Following hand washing, plates and utensils are collected from their storage buckets and pass through cold water rinse, very hot soapy rinse, hot non soapy rinse, and a final warm Clorox solution rinse. This all leaves a clean though rather wet plate. Much plate waving follows to remove most of the remaining water, and then you’re free to move on through the dinner line and fill up with as much of the delicious food as you could possibly want. The food was varied, well cooked, and there was plenty of it. Tonight was grilled salmon, salad, rice, broccoli and carrot cake. A full trip load would be 30 passengers and 4 crew, we were a very small group of only 19 passengers and 3 crew. There was always surplus food at every meal.
Dinner was taken communally, with everyone sitting around in a circle chatting, eating, and getting acquainted, but very shortly after finishing eating everyone returned to their campgrounds and to bed. Most of us did not have watches, and it had been a very long couple of days anyway, but it did amaze me how quickly your body readjusts to the natural rhythm of sleeping from sunset to sunrise.
I started the night in the tent we had erected, but awoke sometime in the night. The wind had dropped, and while it was still rather cool, it was very pleasant outside, and I was wide awake. I moved my sleeping bag outside and spent the remainder of the night, and all nights from that point sleeping out under the stars.
See more photos
Early this morning we were awake and raring to go. We rechecked the bags, dug into the complimentary doughnuts, juice, and coffee. The other guests who would be our companions for the trip trickled into the lobby shortly afterwards. The bus soon arrived to transport us to the north Las Vegas airport, where we were checked in, bags weighed, and we were assigned seats for the plane ride to Marble Canyon.
The flight was interesting, the skies rather cloudy and windy. I did not get any pictures due to a bad setting on my camera (fortunately this problem was quickly discovered on landing). I managed to follow our course over Lake Mead and the Kaibab plateau using the AZ road map. The weather disintegrated as we passed over SR89A and House Rock, and, concentrating on the bouncing of the plane and looking southwards for the first glimpse of the river I did not anticipate the descent over the north canyon rim. It was a spectacular plunge, with the red canyon wall suddenly appearing on the north side of the plane making almost everyone gasp with surprise. Soon the river appeared briefly through a side canyon, then the patched blacktop airstrip was in sight and we were landing. I was rather glad that the bumpy flight was over, and very glad that Mark had not been with me: He would not have enjoyed that flight!
We were met at the plane by three cute looking, early twenties, ‘kids’ who we immediately assumed to be ground helpers, to see us through our repacking, breakfast, transfer to the river, etc. We soon found out that they were all that and more. The three, 1st boat guide and trip leader, Trey, 2nd boat guide, and Lindsey, swamper. No grizzly old boat guys for us! I confess that at first I was a little concerned about the driving experience that these three young people could have. I had been determined to get down in the Grand Canyon since my last trip to Vegas about 18 months ago. Doing research, I had decided that the best way to see it all would have to be by boat, but was rather anxious about the rapids. If there had been an alternate, non rapids, mode of transport available I would certainly have taken it. I had finally decided on a motor trip due to the reputed stability of the larger boats, and the experience of the boatmen. All those concerns resurfaced when I saw this young crew. We were taken to the porch of a large house in Marble Canyon, and instructed in the art of transferring our river gear into two bags: A large bag for clothes changes, bathroom and personal gear which would be stowed away and not accessible during the day, and a smaller bag for items needed during the day. Both bags were rubber with foldover waterproof closures. Each bag set of bags was numbered. I was E6 and MaryBeth E4.
While we were finishing a quick refresher breakfast of bagels, juice, and coffee, TJ gave us an orientation to our upcoming adventure, and our bags were loaded into the vans for transport to the river. We were given a final opportunity to visit the store in Marble Canyon to purchase Beer, last minute supplies, or to walk ¼ mile to the Navajo bridge on US89 to get our first “up close” look at the river. We didn’t need beer, and had already packed away our money anyway, so we chose to walk down to the bridge. The original Navajo Bridge is now a footbridge only and a new road bridge parallels it on the downstream side. It was great to see the river up close, only around 500’ down anyway, and confirm that it was running clear and green.
As we walked back to be picked up, the first van load, with Trey and Lindsey, passed us on their way down to the river. We hurried back to the house to find TJ waiting for us and about 6 others who had chosen to shop or visit the bridge and had not yet returned. During this wait for the second van we had a chance to grill TJ about his river experience. I felt much less anxious after discovering that his father had been a river guide and he had practically grown up on the river and had over 60 trips down the Colorado.
At the river at Lee’s Ferry, more orientation, including the correct fitting of life jackets, boat safety, how to get on and off, etc.. We also received a short talk from a United States Geological Survey rep. The USGS is conducting a survey of the river, both from the air and several rafts, one of which was tied up next to our two rafts in the process of loading, and several which had already launched. Their survey will determine water depths and levels, and the content of the riverbed. The boats were equipped with specialized measuring equipment, and a small aircraft would be flying at approx 4500’ above the river between Glen Canyon Dam and Phantom Ranch for the next several days. Such low flyovers of the river and Canyon are apparently not generally allowed. We actually saw the plane several times over the course of the next few days, but it did not disturb our enjoyment of the canyon.
As well as the special flyover permission the USGS had also arranged to have the water release from Glen Canyon Dam held at a steady 8000 cubic feet per second (cfs). This would mean that the river levels would remain steady and low for the first several days of our trip. The usual flow would have fluctuated depending on electricity demand. The flow immediately before our trip fluctuated between 7,000 and 13,000 cfs. After the talk we experience our first boat loading “duffle shuffle” which involves EVERY able bodied trip member passing personal duffels along a fire line to the boat crew who stow them on the boats. The duffle piles are then covered with an additional waterproof tarp. The pile makes a great seating for all but the roughest rapids. I was to find out fairly early in the trip that this was a great vantage point for watching the shallow river, and even later in the trip get some great rapids rides.
The main purpose for this trip, for me, was the scenery of the Grand Canyon. I was prepared to put up with the rapids of the Colorado to allow me the opportunity to see the canyon, but I was not particularly looking forward to the actual rapids experience. MaryBeth and I both took seat close to the back of the boat where the rapids experience is reputedly less intense than the frontmost seating. The boats pushed off and we started down the river. The weather was wonderful. The water was clear, and green, and very shallow. You could see the rocky bottom clearly. We passed several groups of people fishing who had climbed down from the rim only a couple of hundred feet above.
We experience our first riffles, and I actually enjoyed the cold splashes in the now hot afternoon. By the time we passed below the Navajo bridges the canyon rim had risen to almost 500’ above river level. Around mile 7 we felt raindrops from a seemingly clear sky, then a mile or so later saw virga hanging over the canyon while seeming not to fall to river level. We had already been advised, while in Marble Canyon walking from the plane to the orientation, that we should feel honored to experience any rain on the river as it is a fairly rare occurrence. We did not, however, feel particularly pleased to experience the sudden hail storm which descended on us around mile 9. Raingear was very rapidly donned by almost all of the passengers. Even the guides grabbed for sweatshirts. We shot past the rock at mile 10 without much notice. Probably most passengers were feeling, as I was, ‘What the heck have I got into – 7 days of freezing cold and rapids too?’ The guides were basically the only people facing forward, the remainder of us facing upstream, away from the onslaught of wind, rain, and hail. The guides continued as rapidly as possible downstream, obviously knowing that they could outrun such a small storm in a very short while.As soon as the storm had passed, the boats pulled up to a small beach at Soap Creek for lunch.
We all piled off the rafts and onto the beach. Rain gear and life jackets were quickly discarded. Tables and food were produced and we all enjoyed ‘make your own’ sandwiches, made and consumed without plates or napkins and with as little production and dropping of crumbs as possible. Crumbs encourage harvester ants, which are present on every beach, so every meal was taken with particular care not to leave any food droppings.
Soon enough we were fed, dry, much happier, and loading back on the rafts to continue down the river.
By mid afternoon we had passed through several small and good size rapids, and to be honest I enjoyed them much more than I expected. I even experimented with riding out on the outer raft tube, with one leg hanging out over the side of the raft, and a very securely held ‘inside hold’ which is the only way you can expect to be thrown inside the raft, not outside, if a wave hits you good in a rapid. My fear of rapids was rapidly decreasing. The Canyon is impressive. The rock layers quickly enter the canyon walls from river level at an angle. This makes it seem like you are traveling downhill much more rapidly than you actually are. As we traveled the 20s series of rapids we passed Indian Dick Rock, which apparently has nothing to do with a Native American called Richard! The wind picked up and it became cooler as we continued on down to our first camp at South Canyon (Mile 31 ½). We disembarked onto the beach, which was just upstream of, and had a fairly good view of Vasey’s Paradise.
Everyone chose a campground (ours was up a rather steep sandy incline at the back of the beach and above the kitchen), then returned for the duffle shuffle. As well as the personal gear bags we also all found our own numbered night bag which matched the day and personal bag numbers, and TJ gave us an orientation on what we would find in the night bags: ground cover, self inflating mattress pad, sleeping bag, self inflating pillow, and sheet. After a demonstration of how to use and repack the self inflating pads, and tent setup (for those who preferred to sleep in a tent) everyone went to set up their own campground and get themselves bathed and settled for the evening while the crew cooked dinner. Many chose to use the tents on this first night due to the cool, sand filled, breeze blowing down the canyon. After setting up the tents it was bathtime. There was a nice shallow rock lined cove that made a suitable bathing hole. The downside was definitely the cold water, but I figured I had better get used to it anyway. The cold breeze did not help much, but once I was dry and dressed again after bathing it really did feel good to have done it. I added my fleece sweatshirt over my shorts and t-shirt pajama combo.
Very shortly the call for dinner had everyone back in the kitchen for instruction in the dish sanitation system. Following hand washing, plates and utensils are collected from their storage buckets and pass through cold water rinse, very hot soapy rinse, hot non soapy rinse, and a final warm Clorox solution rinse. This all leaves a clean though rather wet plate. Much plate waving follows to remove most of the remaining water, and then you’re free to move on through the dinner line and fill up with as much of the delicious food as you could possibly want. The food was varied, well cooked, and there was plenty of it. Tonight was grilled salmon, salad, rice, broccoli and carrot cake. A full trip load would be 30 passengers and 4 crew, we were a very small group of only 19 passengers and 3 crew. There was always surplus food at every meal.
Dinner was taken communally, with everyone sitting around in a circle chatting, eating, and getting acquainted, but very shortly after finishing eating everyone returned to their campgrounds and to bed. Most of us did not have watches, and it had been a very long couple of days anyway, but it did amaze me how quickly your body readjusts to the natural rhythm of sleeping from sunset to sunrise.
I started the night in the tent we had erected, but awoke sometime in the night. The wind had dropped, and while it was still rather cool, it was very pleasant outside, and I was wide awake. I moved my sleeping bag outside and spent the remainder of the night, and all nights from that point sleeping out under the stars.
See more photos
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